Hot Water Heater Contaminated

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Reach4

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Although dumping a bunch of "Liquid Wrench" onto the anode cavity doesn't seem overly clever.
If somebody were to do that as the only way to break loose the anode, I think that after the anode turns 1/8 turn, then removing the liquid would have been good. I understand that this comment is in retrospect... a little like saying what numbers you should have played on yesterday's lottery.
 

Slomoola

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Just curious if the entire story has been told. For any penetrating giz to actually creep past the threads into the tank. Then contaminating the entire hot supply sounds fishy. The tank threads and or anode threads must of been ultra stripped to allow this. You would of had water pouring into the house at this connection.

Most threads don't pass any lube. Take a rusty lug nut. Spray any brand super giz on the threads. Normally there is so much friction AT the threads that they are totally dry once the nut is removed. Lube doesn't penetrate nor do any help.

Or if you spray threads, the upper exposed will be shiny with lube. Lower concealed will be totally dry.
 

jrprusak

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Just curious if the entire story has been told. For any penetrating giz to actually creep past the threads into the tank. Then contaminating the entire hot supply sounds fishy. The tank threads and or anode threads must of been ultra stripped to allow this. You would of had water pouring into the house at this connection.

Most threads don't pass any lube. Take a rusty lug nut. Spray any brand super giz on the threads. Normally there is so much friction AT the threads that they are totally dry once the nut is removed. Lube doesn't penetrate nor do any help.

Or if you spray threads, the upper exposed will be shiny with lube. Lower concealed will be totally dry.
A socket would not work for removal of the anode rod. The liquid wrench was sprayed into the anode head cavity. It did not help the removal. An impact wrench was needed to break the seal which is when the liquid wrench material entered the tank and contaminated the water heater. I had no idea this material was that toxic. We can still smell it in the hot water after endless flushing using various additives. Wife is not happy. Last step will be to replace the 12 year old water heater.
 

Jeff H Young

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I figured by the opening post this is what happened evedently a little liquid wrench goes a long way . bummer That it might need replaced 12 years is a good run on a water heater in my area. maybe give it more time to get clean
 

Slomoola

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A socket would not work for removal of the anode rod.
What? Every anode I've removed was by using a 31mm impact grade 6 pointed socket. See what I mean about not telling the entire story? So what do you use then to remove your anodes?

The liquid wrench was sprayed into the anode head cavity.
Normal ops here. Don't see an issue. Unless you sprayed several cans and magically it all collected in this cavity as you call it. Never seen that happen. There is a small area where a tiny amount could collect at the threads. Not enough to wreck the entire house hot supply. Maybe your tank is something I've never seen or worked on? Offering you the benefit of the doubt.
We can still smell it in the hot water after endless flushing using various additives.
Are you smelling the upper tank area where the spray was used? Or is it actually IN the hot water?

Take a hot water sample in a glass jar. Take it outside in the wind, far from the house and water tank. IF there is any oil in there, it will not blow out. Should be seen floating at the top of the glass and can smell/taste it. Do a cold water glass jar AT the same time. See if you and the wife can smell it. Blindfold even better.

My guess is that when sprayed, there is a fine mist of oil that gets into the air. That mist can fall on drywall or any other porous surface and create a smell. Wash any drywall down with pure ammonia and a rag. Clean all around the tank and anode area. Ammonia will cut that oil and definitely leave a clean smell.

Shifting gears. I hope you don't drink your hot water regularly. Too many diseases can live/grow in a hot water tank.
 

Sarg

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What? Every anode I've removed was by using a 31mm impact grade 6 pointed socket. See what I mean about not telling the entire story? So what do you use then to remove your anodes?
Just for clarity ... every anode I've bought and seen on the internet calls for a 1 1/16" (1.060 ) SAE socket.
31mm = 1.220
27mm perhaps ? (1.063 )
 
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Slomoola

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Just for clarity ... every anode I've bought and seen on the internet calls for a 1 1/16" (1.060 ) SAE socket.
31mm = 1.220
27mm perhaps ? (1.063 )
If I recall it's either 1 and 1/16" inch or a 31mm 6 point impact socket. Maybe it is a 27mm? Been wrong before. Yup 31mm is much larger.

I bought an electric anode. Came with a metric socket that fit perfect. Any-hoo. Good catch sir.
 

Sylvan

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In the navy when we had bolts that would not loosen on steam flanges we used a candle as the wax would help loosen the nuts.

Heating a nipple etc and using wax seems safer then chemicals
 
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