Grout in shower drain?

[tl11]

Hi,

I just re-grouted my shower floor because one of the grout lines on the floor was split open.

While doing the work, I removed the shower drain and saw the attached picture.

It looks like there is grout in the drain? I'm thinking the previous owner had grouted, and washed the excess grout down the drain instead of rinsing it off in a bucket.

Should I chip off the grout in the drain? It's probably blocking off the shower pan weeping system. Also catching all that hair instead of it going down the drain.

Any ideas on how I should go about removing the grout without damaging anything? Thanks!

 

[Terry]

I have used a flat blade screwdriver and a wet vac suck out the chips I'm breaking off.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[FullySprinklered]

I dated an older woman......Never mind.

 

[tl11]

I have used a flat blade screwdriver and a wet vac suck out the chips I'm breaking off.

Thanks! I tried this morning and the grout comes off pretty easily

 

[Jadnashua]

There's probably a bunch sitting in the p-trap, but whatever you can remove will help at least some. Grout/thinset cleanup needs to be done outside.

Just a caution, though, normally, lost grout implies other problems in a tiled system. Grout doesn't crack unless there's movement, and, movement in a tile system means ongoing problems. FWIW, neither grout nor the tile is what is considered the waterproofing in a shower...the shower enclosure should be water tight even before the tile/grout/caulk is installed...tile/grout is the decorative/wear surface, not waterproofing. A common problem area on a shower for grout cracking is in the corners, at the base of the walls, and around the curb. Industry standards call for all changes of plane to be done with an engineered, flexible joint, or caulk. If you grout those, they often will crack. On a curb, if they compromised the waterproofing layer, and there are wooden pieces in the core of the curb, cracking there implies the wood is swelling, and new grout will not prevent further damage occurring. So, unless the original grout was not installed properly, cracking is an indication of some other problem, and regrouting won't be a permanent repair.

One study I read said that 70-80% of tiled showers in the USA were not built to industry standards. Building one isn't particularly hard, at least technically (skill level may affect the visual aspects, though), but it is VERY detail oriented...omit or misconstrue one detail during construction, and it can lead to problems some of which don't show up for years later.

 

[tl11]

Jadnashua, thanks for the info. I'll definitely keep an eye on the grout situation. For the changes of plane areas I used silicone.

I'll run a snake thru the p-trap to see how clogged it is. But I think it is ok since we have taken showers, and it drains just fine.

I don't doubt the 70-80%. Before I re-grout, I did some research and was amazed how complicated tiled shower system are. When we redo the bathroom in a couple of years, we'll definitely go with a solid surface shower.

 

[Jadnashua]

Even installers with solid surface mess up! Really, it's not technically hard to get a well performing shower, but you have to cross all of the T's and dot all of the I's, or you'll have issues. IMHO, one of the problems, unlike some other parts of the world, almost anyone int he USA can call themselves a tile installer...we have long lost the journeyman, master apprentice path where people learned from a master and things were done with high quality. The scary situation is many of these people don't really know they're doing it wrong.

Plus, over the last 25-years, numerous new techniques, materials, and methods were introduced that can produce a higher quality, reliable shower.

When it's time to redo, check out www.johnbridge.com for help on tiling. Lots of good people over there. Even if you pay someone to do it, they can help you learn what to look for, or guide you should you decide to do it yourself.