Yea I was starting to doubt too lol. I do have a relief valve near the pressure tank, but the pump can't generate enough pressure to open it, so not much help in its current state.Amazing! I didn't think you would get it out. Hope you can fish all that tape out of there and get the pump set above that spot and back to working. Do you have a pressure relief valve?
Good point, thanks for catching that. I'd already been thinking about adding a mid-way check valve since the manual for that pump recommends them every 100', but if the one in the pump is leaking then it should definitely be replaced with one near the pump.If you add a spring-loaded check valve above the pump, put it pretty much right above the pump, rather than 100 ft higher. For sure, make sure it is below the drawdown level.
Sounds good about the refill. Was wondering of the graphite in the fill solution might actually be aiding with lubrication.Don't trust the built in check valve. Don't even put the poppet back in. It can stick the other way and not let the pump push any water. Do not put another check valve anywhere except right on the pump. Any other check valves will cause problems.
The pump looks fine. The motor will be fine also. But not building enough pressure to open the relief valve when the pressure switch fails or running dry is what causes it to get hot enough to melt the casing. All pressure relief valves are adjustable. Just take off the little cap and adjust the screw underneath. When the pump shuts off at 60 PSI, loosen the adjustment until the prv leaks. Then tighten ever so slightly until it stops leaking.
The rubber washer is just a sand slinger. It will work without it. The screen is useless, don't put it back either. I am still amazed at how much you accomplished.
This is awkward, but...
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