Fleck 5600, twin 1054 tanks and chlorine injection. Valve leak, media replace
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Understood and will do. I should have done that prior to bothering you guys. We might have to take a short pause and wait for the results. I apologize.
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ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
We can only do wild guessing without a proper test. If you were on a municipal supply it would be easy since the water has absolute limits on several contaminants. Since you are on your own private well, you are the municipality.
Gsmith22
Active Member
NJ attempted to digitize well records. you can search various ways here:
https://www13.state.nj.us/DataMiner...ategory=y&catName=Water+Supply+and+Geoscience
can search by well driller, when well was drilled, location of well,etc. my well was drilled at about the same time and I was able to locate the record (I think) based on the location with no other records being close in proximity and the timeframe being correct
https://www13.state.nj.us/DataMiner...ategory=y&catName=Water+Supply+and+Geoscience
can search by well driller, when well was drilled, location of well,etc. my well was drilled at about the same time and I was able to locate the record (I think) based on the location with no other records being close in proximity and the timeframe being correct
Thank you for the link i will make an attempt to locate it.
Gsmith22
Active Member
You may have to "interpret" the records. Don't just try to match up address (or ignore address). try to get location (easting/northing), time frame of well drilled, maybe driller, etc. all in general alignment with what you expect. its near certainty that some of the info will not have been transcribed perfectly from paper to digital. My record has no address, its easting/northing is close but would put it in my back yard (well is in side yard several hundred feet away), and the age was a few years earlier than I thought but there is no other (known) well that would make any sense with this record. you should be able to get a downloadable spreadsheet with wells in a certain radius of what your well location is and then you can filter the spreadsheet for well info that makes sense with your property. Your well is of a similar age as mine - I had to spend time looking through their info to narrow it down and it didn't immediately just jump out at me as "the record".
Sorry for the late reply gsmith22. I haven't had time to research more carefully yet. On another note I received the water test material and hope to ship it to the lab on Tuesday, I will update this thread when I get the preliminary results.
I tried the Hach#5 hardness test kit and could not get my very light pink water to turn blue even after 100 drops of the solution. Either I have very hard water or the kit was too old, or I made a mistake somewhere,,,,
I tried the Hach#5 hardness test kit and could not get my very light pink water to turn blue even after 100 drops of the solution. Either I have very hard water or the kit was too old, or I made a mistake somewhere,,,,
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Suggest to dilute your water sample with distilled water as specified in post #12 in this thread. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-help-with-fleck-2510-3210-timer-settings.82509/
This will reduce the amount of indicator solution required so you don't use it all after only a few tests.
The Hach 5B has a long shelf life. Your hardness maybe considerably higher than you anticipate.
I already sent out the water test to NTL as instructed here. UPS delayed the shipment by one day due to bad weather but they will be able to use it for everything else except coliform bacteria etc.
I figured I will wait for that instead for now. I will update this thread when I have the results
Ok. Here is what i'm thinking of doing. Please see diagram.
Buy a 200-300 Gallon conical tank with some kind of spray head inside which will be supplied directly by the well pump and will auto-stop the well pump when the water reaches a certain level.
This will serve 4 purposes:
a)make sure I always have adequate water supply for a day or so, regardless of what happens to the well or the pump,
b) partly aerate the gasses out of the water (sulfur, radon...etc)
c) allow for some of the solids (mud) to fall to the conical section of the tank so that they can be extracted periodically through the valve at the bottom ,
d) eliminate the need to have a big pressure tank and make use of the CSV valve for constant pressure.
Then next to that I can put a fairly small pump connected to the CSV valve and go to the "Flexx oxi-gen aeration iron and sulfur filter" Its sold by uswatersystems and claims to not clog like others because the air is injected on the side. It also has the option to add an Ozone generator and a small amount of H2O2 to help with the oxygenation but it doesn't need a pump.
After that I would re-bed the twin 10x54 tanks with fresh resin and fix the existing fleck valve to use on the next stage. This system should take care of the sulfur gas, the manganese and iron and maybe some of the radon if present. (water test is on the way)
Also _I didn't draw this on the diagram_ but I thought maybe I can use my existing chlorine injection system to keep the water on the storage tank sanitized and add the carbon tank at the end stage to filter out any chlorine residual and other particulates
I realize that its not possible to evaluate this without a proper water test (it's on the way) but I'm trying to proactively design the system based on high iron and manganese content which I almost certainly have.
There is a "slight possibility" that my thinking is flawed _maybe even laughable_ and I don't mind a good laugh at my expense but would also request some constructive criticism to go along with it...... I think its fair that if I entertain someone that I will get something in return
Buy a 200-300 Gallon conical tank with some kind of spray head inside which will be supplied directly by the well pump and will auto-stop the well pump when the water reaches a certain level.
This will serve 4 purposes:
a)make sure I always have adequate water supply for a day or so, regardless of what happens to the well or the pump,
b) partly aerate the gasses out of the water (sulfur, radon...etc)
c) allow for some of the solids (mud) to fall to the conical section of the tank so that they can be extracted periodically through the valve at the bottom ,
d) eliminate the need to have a big pressure tank and make use of the CSV valve for constant pressure.
Then next to that I can put a fairly small pump connected to the CSV valve and go to the "Flexx oxi-gen aeration iron and sulfur filter" Its sold by uswatersystems and claims to not clog like others because the air is injected on the side. It also has the option to add an Ozone generator and a small amount of H2O2 to help with the oxygenation but it doesn't need a pump.
After that I would re-bed the twin 10x54 tanks with fresh resin and fix the existing fleck valve to use on the next stage. This system should take care of the sulfur gas, the manganese and iron and maybe some of the radon if present. (water test is on the way)
Also _I didn't draw this on the diagram_ but I thought maybe I can use my existing chlorine injection system to keep the water on the storage tank sanitized and add the carbon tank at the end stage to filter out any chlorine residual and other particulates
I realize that its not possible to evaluate this without a proper water test (it's on the way) but I'm trying to proactively design the system based on high iron and manganese content which I almost certainly have.
There is a "slight possibility" that my thinking is flawed _maybe even laughable_ and I don't mind a good laugh at my expense but would also request some constructive criticism to go along with it...... I think its fair that if I entertain someone that I will get something in return
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Bannerman
Well-Known Member
A spray head within the conical tank will act to aerate the water so that at least some oxidation of the iron, manganese and sulfur will occur in that tank. If an additional oxidizer such as chlorine or H2O2 is also added, that may eliminate a need for further aeration or I,M & S treatment depending on the actual amount of each in your raw water.
Obtain the lab test results before deciding on the treatment method or equipment.
Edit: in reviewing your photos, your retention tank is 40 gallons, not 75.
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If you do that in the conical tank, you could have a GAC tank to remove the residual chlorine/H2O2 before the softener. Classic treatment method.
Hmm.. you're absolutely right! I was mislead by the 75PSIG indication on the sticker. It clearly says 40 gallon on the upper right corner, Thanks
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ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Not a fan of that unit, many better designs available.
The conical bottom tank deign is excellent but why not just get a modern delivery pump rather than a CSV/pump for the house? These "new" pumps have been around for many years and have proven to be very reliable and reasonably priced.
Personally, I prefer the Clack based Air/Ozone design. The valve is superior in every way when compared to the Chinese knock-offs.
The conical bottom tank deign is excellent but why not just get a modern delivery pump rather than a CSV/pump for the house? These "new" pumps have been around for many years and have proven to be very reliable and reasonably priced.
Personally, I prefer the Clack based Air/Ozone design. The valve is superior in every way when compared to the Chinese knock-offs.
Hi ditttohead.
"why not just get a modern delivery pump rather than a CSV/pump for the house?
The CSV/pump combination is the best I could come up with. I would really appreciate it if you could point me to your suggested alternatives. Is there a modern delivery pump that you can recommend? From what I read the CSV can do away with a big pressure tank and provide constant pressure without the need for a variable frequency setup. I was also attracted to the fact that its simple, cheap and mechanical. I came across the csv valve when I looked to replace my pressure tank which I initially thought might be the problem for the variable pressure I'm experiencing
"Not a fan of that unit, many better designs available."
I'm guessing this is in reference to the uswatersystems oxi-gen aerator. I tried searching for "Clack based Air/Ozone design" with no luck. I will call today to see if I can get preliminary results from my water test but for the sake of researching this now I think its safe to say my well has a very high iron, manganese, sulfur content. Based on this assumption and taking into account the write up on this https://www.uswatersystems.com/flex...nd-sulfur-filter.html?quantity=1&flow-rate=13 web page, it looks like the nozzles on any other aerator might clog very easily and this is a way to mitigate that. I would love to hear your specific suggestions on an aerator that uses the US made Clack valve
I did part of what bannerman had suggested on the first page of this thread where I sampled some water before the filters and let it rest for a couple of hrs. It went from being brownish/cloudy to clear and the settled debris looked exactly like the dirt around my property, red clay/marl. I will make it a point today to take two different samples and put some bleach in one of them so I can see the difference. I will also collect some of the "sticky slime" from the filter that's first inline and will sent that to the lab for testing as well.
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