Mark Alan
Member
This is what I ordered for settings, per your instructions above. CSV will be at 80 with a 70/90 pressure switch. Do I need to do anything different?
County water with low pressure at the meter location
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Looking at https://www.lockewell.com/pdf/goulds/j-series.pdf it seems that you will getthe 90 cutoff with some margin as long as the water is at least 10PSI at 1 gpm. If the city water pressure is 15, you will have good margin.
I messed up. I think I was looking at numbers for a pump other than the J5S -- maybe the J5SH. Sorry.
I messed up. I think I was looking at numbers for a pump other than the J5S -- maybe the J5SH. Sorry.
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Mark Alan
Member
I hope so.
What are you doing to prevent freezing?
ftp://ftp.ncdc.noaa.gov/pub/data/EngineeringWeatherData_CDROM/engwx/huntsville_al.pdf
If making a shed, consider putting a small subpanel in the shed. You could have outlets that could be used for a heater, tools, or whatever. Small subpanels are not expensive. The downside is you would have to run a neutral to have any 120 volt outlets. I presume the pump will be powered by 240 volts. http://snowcrest.net/thriftysupply/pdf/GouldsJetP-S.pdf has some useful power and wire tables.
Also, while you are doing your plumbing, maybe add a yard hydrant from the city water. You could use that if the pump failed. You probably won't need it, and you could probably get some containers filled by a neighbor if it came to that.
A yard hydrant drains itself into the ground when turned off, so they are not a freezing problem.
ftp://ftp.ncdc.noaa.gov/pub/data/EngineeringWeatherData_CDROM/engwx/huntsville_al.pdf
If making a shed, consider putting a small subpanel in the shed. You could have outlets that could be used for a heater, tools, or whatever. Small subpanels are not expensive. The downside is you would have to run a neutral to have any 120 volt outlets. I presume the pump will be powered by 240 volts. http://snowcrest.net/thriftysupply/pdf/GouldsJetP-S.pdf has some useful power and wire tables.
Also, while you are doing your plumbing, maybe add a yard hydrant from the city water. You could use that if the pump failed. You probably won't need it, and you could probably get some containers filled by a neighbor if it came to that.
A yard hydrant drains itself into the ground when turned off, so they are not a freezing problem.
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Mark Alan
Member
I plan on installing a disconnect for the pump power, along with a 12ov outlet. I have 10/3 running to where the pump will be located, so I can do 120 or 240 to the pump. I have not decided on what I want to use. More than likely it will be 240.
That could power a 30 amp subpanel in a shed.
Mark Alan
Member
Yep that was the plan.
Mark Alan
Member
I installed the PK1 system, and it had been working great. Today the pump would not reach cutoff. I had to adjust the pump cutoff down a little from 90 to about 85. Is this normal or has something happened?
I am about to order a pump saver just to be safe.
Thanks
Mark
I am about to order a pump saver just to be safe.
Thanks
Mark
A J10S can only build 74 PSI. So the city must supply more than 16 PSI to the pump for it to build to 90 and shut off. I doubt there is anything wrong with the pump. Most likely the city supply was less than 20 PSI. A pump saver will not help with this, and most likely will not work with the CSV. The CSV causes the motor amps to drop so low a pump saver thinks it is out of water when it is just the CSV making it deliver low flow. A Cycle Sensor will work with a CSV, but it may not detect a low inlet supply pressure until the pump gets hot and cavitates. You really just need to keep the pressure switch and CSV set low enough the pump can work even when the city is give you say 10 PSI. That would mean a CSV setting of about 70 and a pressure switch setting no higher than 60/80.
Mark Alan
Member
Thanks Cary. If I am not mistaken you set the pressure switch for 70/90 and the CSV at 80. According to the pressure gauge the pressure is around 22 to 25 PSI. I did drop the pressure switch cutoff to around 85 or so. I might need to go a little lower to insure that the pump will cut off every time. I don't know if I need to do anything else to keep the system at peak performance. I have no idea how to adjust a CSV. I have great pressure at the house, so I am not sure what to do.
I was hoping that the Cycle sensor would work incase I lost water, due to air in the line, or something drastic like loosing water to the pump due to the line being cut. That has happened due to road work and such around the house. Please let me know what you think.
I was hoping that the Cycle sensor would work incase I lost water, due to air in the line, or something drastic like loosing water to the pump due to the line being cut. That has happened due to road work and such around the house. Please let me know what you think.
You want to keep the CSV setting in the middle of your pressure switch setting. So if you turned the pressure switch down from 70/90 to 65/85, you want to loosen the adjustment on the CSV so it holds a constant 75 PSI while you are running a shower or something about 3 GPM.
A Cycle Sensor will shut the pump off if it loses prime. When boosting city water pressure that is too low you won't actually lose prime, it just won't be able to build to 85 or so and shut off unless the city is giving you at least 15 PSI or so. The Cycle Sensor will still shut the pump down on loss of prime, but not until the water gets hot will it actually loose prime.
A Cycle Sensor will shut the pump off if it loses prime. When boosting city water pressure that is too low you won't actually lose prime, it just won't be able to build to 85 or so and shut off unless the city is giving you at least 15 PSI or so. The Cycle Sensor will still shut the pump down on loss of prime, but not until the water gets hot will it actually loose prime.
Mark Alan
Member
I only dropped the cut off side on the pressure switch, just enough that the pump would shut off. Do I need to adjust it back or mess with the CSV. Could trash in the switch cause this issue? I had been working fine for several months before. This only happened after the water line was busted by the city, while working on the road.
Mark Alan
Member
I only turned the small nut about a turn or so. I did not adjust the large nut at all.
The nuts are usually the same size" 3/8 inch.
To raise or lower the cut-in and cut-out settings while keeping the
differential between those two settings constant, adjust the range
nut. The range nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the larger of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G Pumptrol
switches.
Turn the range nut clockwise to increase the cut-in pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-in pressure. Three and a half
revolutions of the range nut will change both the cut-in and
cut-out settings by approximately 10 psi.
Adjust the differential nut if you want to raise or lower the
cut-out setting while keeping the cut-in pressure constant. The
differential nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the smaller of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G switches. Turn
the differential nut clockwise to increase the cut-out pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-out pressure. Adjusting the
differential nut will change only the cut-out setting while the
cut-in setting remains unchanged.
I think it is common that you cannot adjust the differential too much, if any, lower than the 20 PSI differentialdifferential between those two settings constant, adjust the range
nut. The range nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the larger of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G Pumptrol
switches.
Turn the range nut clockwise to increase the cut-in pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-in pressure. Three and a half
revolutions of the range nut will change both the cut-in and
cut-out settings by approximately 10 psi.
Adjust the differential nut if you want to raise or lower the
cut-out setting while keeping the cut-in pressure constant. The
differential nut is the 3/8-inch nut that adjusts the smaller of
the two springs in Models FSG, FYG, FRG, and Type G switches. Turn
the differential nut clockwise to increase the cut-out pressure and
counter-clockwise to lower the cut-out pressure. Adjusting the
differential nut will change only the cut-out setting while the
cut-in setting remains unchanged.
that the switch comes pre-set to. You can widen it.
I would loosen the adjustment on the CSV about 1/3 of a turn. (Lefty Lucy) Don't mess with the small adjustment in the pressure switch. Do your adjusting with the large screw and it will stay 20 PSI between the on and off.
Mark Alan
Member
Do I need to put the cut off only adjustment back and do the adjustment with the other adjuster then adjust the CSV? or is it ok as is and adjust the CSV?
Doesn't matter where it comes on. If it is cutting off at 85 PSI, you want the CSV to hold a steady 75 PSI while using 3 GPM.
Mark Alan
Member
Will a garden hose do the 3 GPM? That is all that is currently hooked up at the house. I should have a sink and toilet installed and working by next weekend.
Yeah probably only want it about 1/2 way open.
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