Cottage system redesign

[Devon S]

Hey everyone! I'm planning to change some of the current water system at the lake in the spring, so I'm gathering as much info as I can to hit the ground running when the snow and ice are gone.

I'm at Last Mountain Lake in Saskatchewan. The cottage is on the shore, 10-ish feet above the water with a high steep bank behind. I currently have a shallow well pump (1 hp I believe) with a small pressure tank attached to it. There is a small bathroom connected to this system as well as a line going up the bank to a bib. A tank at the top of the bank behind the cottage is manually filled (via the bib) to gravity feed the cottage (pump does not feed the cottage). The top of the bank is 30 - 40 feet up at a pretty steep angle (45 - 70 degrees). The top of the bank is also where the yard and lawn is. Current system is quite happy to run a typical impact sprinkler from the bib to the end of an 80-foot hose. Currently from foot valve to the bib on the hill is 100-150 feet. Pump has roughly 30 feet of pipe in the water.

The only thing I'm planning on changing is the pump. Current one is starting to rust and leak. I could simply replace it with a new unit, but it constantly loses prime. I'd like to add automatic sprinklers, but this won't work with an un-primed pump when we're not there. So, I'm considering a submersible deep well pump installed in the lake. I'll build a sleeve/stand to keep it off the sandy bottom. It'll be pulled out each autumn.

Questions:
- Considering an off-brand pump from Amazon. Ignoring the "get what you pay for" argument, thoughts?
- Are these pumps built for continuous use (i.e. irrigation for 5-ish hours)?
- Pressure tank. Do I need one if it's just supplying a small bathroom and the yard bib?
- Pressure switch. I currently have a 30/50 on the old pump. Re-use it or get a 40/60?
- Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your insight!
-D

 

[Valveman]

Yeah that pump will work. But even with a 40/60 switch, it is going to want to put out 25 GPM or so. Where your old pump would barely run a single sprinkler, this one will want to run 10 sprinklers at the same time. If you run any less than 10 sprinklers, the pump will cycle on/off rapidly and will quickly destroy itself. Adding a CSV1A will make that pump handle 1 sprinkler by itself if needed without cycling the pump to death. The CSV would also open up and let it run up to 10 sprinklers at one time as well. Basically the CSV1A will make than pump do anything yo want it to do.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Devon S]

Thanks, Cary. That's a little piece of genius right there. And very cool that the creator of the valve is involved in spreading knowledge about it. But now it looks like any potential savings in a lower priced pump will likely be coming your way! Considering budget limitations, would the CSV125-1 be a viable option? I'm not sure if I need the adjustability of the CSV1A. Where can I find these in the Great White North?

 

[Valveman]

Don't recommend the CSV125 with lake water. It works great with clean water, but sediment will make it leak. The CSV1A is designed to handle sand/debris, higher pressures, and is adjustable, which is why is cost more. But they both work the same. If the CSV125 will last 5 years or longer, then the water is fairly clean.

Any submersible is going to pump too much water at too high pressure, and cause cycling unless you run a lot of sprinklers at one time. Even a 1/2HP is going to want to run about 3 sprinklers unless you have a CSV to keep it from cycling when using only 1 sprinkler.

 

[Devon S]

Can you recommend a Canadian supplier?

 

[Valveman]

We ship to Canada everyday. The only companies who stock CSV's are well/pump supply houses that sell to installers exclusively.