Convert copper pipes from tub/shower to shower?

[Vegas_sparky]

Good job. I'm not a plumber, but I leave mine at pressure over night, and call it good, if there's no leaks.

You might need some additional pipe supports, but I don't know the rules on that.

 

[Eurob]

Small victory... The new rough in valve, ball-shutoff valves, and shower head pipe are in. I tested it at full pressure with a plug at the shower head.

How long do you leave it at full pressure for it to be a good test?

I Don't know about a week, a month or a year from now. But at least for now it is not leaking...

I think something like this can help in your system .

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/images2/Water hammer arrestor.jpg

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Arnav]

Why?

I thought you only need it if the pipes makes loud banging noises (and it didn't before or now when I tested it?)

Maybe I should test it with the actual trim valve in and see if I get banging noises.

 

[Arnav]

I closed the rough-in valve tub's exit with Teflon and a screw cap. Would it be better to solder a pipe and a cap instead?

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

.. take your time you only get one shot! mapei also makes a site sizeble drain now ....

I looked it up RSCB. Why does it have so many parts?

 

[ShowerDude]

Definately wasnt condoning its use!. I have not tried it. pretty sure Quick Drain and ACO are the way to go with linear drains..

If you read the whole Foam kit instructions they refer to their Foam as Structural Foam...They do have a smaller curb than most kits.. there are some moving parts arent there...

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

You lost me at foam. I looked and saw all these pieces. And a flat bottom. Looks complicated and silly. Like it was designed by someone with and engineering degree - not by someone who builds showers for a living.

How does the drain drain if the slope is flat in the channel?

 

[Arnav]

Anyone?

Should a rough-in valve tub exit be closed with teflon tape and a screw cap or solder a pipe and a cap instead?

Thx!

 

[Terry]

If you are capping off the tub outlet for a shower only, you can do either one.
Most of the time I won't have a brass threaded cap on hand, so I will use solder something up. If the kit comes with a threaded cap/plug, I may use that.

If you are dealing with a tub/shower combination that uses a diverter on the tub spout, depending on the tub spout, threaded or slip, you will rough with a threaded nipple or a copper stubout.
This is a place where CPVC or PEX can't be used.

 

[Arnav]

Hi Terry. I will leave it as is then. I started thinking maybe Teflon tape is not permanent but looks like I don't need to worry about it. Thx.

 

[Arnav]

I have done a lot more research...

With two 22 degrees elbows (instead of two 45 ones) I was able to bring the primary clamping drain all the way to the studs.

I am trying to choose between two drain widths:
- Option 1: 2-7/8"
- Option 2: 1-13/16"

The ~2" one is a safer bet but will not be flushed against the wall.
If my calculations are correct I should be able to use the 2" one and be flushed with the wall.

I can use your advice to make sure my calculations make sense. I attached a drawing for readability.

Wall buildout:
1/4 (metal studs furring strip) + 1/2" (CBU) + 1/4 (thinset - max) + 5/8" (tile) = 1-5/8"

Drain lippage from clamping drain hole: 2-7/8" (width of drain) - 2" (size of pipe) / 2 = 7/16"
That is, the drain will "stick out" 7/16" from the primary drain hole.

Distance from stud to clamping drain hole: 2-1/4"

gap between wall buildout and linear drain: 2-1/4" (distance to drain) - 7/16" linear drain lippage) - 1-5/8" (wall buildout) = 3/16"

So if my calculations/assumptions are correct, I will have 3/16" gap / grout line...

What do you think? Does this look right? The 2-7/8" drain will work right?

 

[ShowerDude]

in a perfect world .

we cannot answer this until we know what brand clamp drain, waterproofing material, brand of linear drain , physical drain connection, and on.

slow down give us more details? start with drain brand, primary waterproofing? and shower oan approach?

if you butt that drain clamp to the wall as pictured my first concern is the waterproofing .... and or pan liner attachment. on and on

 

[Arnav]

Sure, its a traditional mud pan shower (see a few pages back).

The above diagram is not showing the pre-slope and slope, I created the diagram to help determine the width of the drain.

here is what I intend to use:

Linear Drain: Infinity Drain S-DG 65.
1. Web page.
2. Instructions.

Primary Drain: Sioux Chief 2" PVC Shower Drain

PVC liner: 40-mil PVC shower pan liner

Walls: Durock 1/2" CBU + 6 mil Poly

Thx!

 

[Jadnashua]

You lost me at foam. I looked and saw all these pieces. And a flat bottom. Looks complicated and silly. Like it was designed by someone with and engineering degree - not by someone who builds showers for a living.

How does the drain drain if the slope is flat in the channel?

Mapei's shower drain kit was designed by a master tiler that they liked and bought the rights to sell.

 

[ShowerDude]

can it all work? quite possibly. i dont like the drain flange being butted to wall with no pre slope at plate/stud wall and the sharp pan liner turn with a voc solvent drain connection, but your flood test will verify that for us.....

lets see how you will layer things and your ptrap work?

its not impossible to make your set up work... few concerns to look close at. FYI i am not looking at infinity specs right now nor am i verifying for you that you have done the math right.

subflloor/deflection should be looked at as well..

 

[Arnav]

can it all work? quite possibly. i dont like the drain flange being butted to wall with no pre slope at plate/stud wall and the sharp pan liner turn with a voc solvent drain connection, but your flood test will verify that for us.....
If I use two 45 elbows I can move the primary drain 1.5" away from the studs. Still not so much of a slope?
With the liner going vertically up water will drain straight down to the weep holes?

lets see how you will layer things and your ptrap work?
The p-trap was verified to be under the slab (see this post). I will create and post a diagram of the various layers. I was more concerned with the drain width so that I know what to order.

its not impossible to make your set up work... few concerns to look close at. FYI i am not looking at infinity specs right now nor am i verifying for you that you have done the math right.
Yeah, my concern was more whether my wall buildout is correct.

subflloor/deflection should be looked at as well..
The shower is on a concrete slab.

 

[ShowerDude]

the best way to answer that is allow yourself wiggle room, and plan so that you can Fur out the drain wall as needed. give yourself an 1/8" extra and add a fur strip before cbu backer. I use drywall shims, this way you can get it perfect and not worry that you are to close to the wall which is absolute deal breaker and cannot be fixed.

this begs to the questiin of how your pan will be built/layered up .

infinitys directions are your safest bet but myself id make some changes.

 

[ShowerDude]

zurn makes a pvc clamp drain smaller sized than rhe soiux chief. like the baby blue watts john refers to....

 

[Arnav]

yes, I counted in my "math" 1/4" plywood furring strips over the metal studs as well as 1/4" of thinset (which I think realistically will be much less). To bad you need to cement the drain before everything else...

The drain's instructions say that you can double the CBU to get closer to the drain on the narrower drains. They didn't suggest that you may need to do so for the 3" one. Here is their drawing, I still need to make my own...

What specific changes would you make?

 

[Arnav]

zurn makes a pvc clamp drain smaller sized than rhe soiux chief. like the baby blue watts john refers to....

Yes, I looked into that one. In my case since this is a bathtub to shower conversion, the drain location is fixed. The attractive thing about that drain (as I understand it) is that it has a smaller diameter, allowing you to place the drain even closer to to the wall (resulting in a flush installation with the wall). So with either drain you would aim to be as close to the wall as necessary for a flush installation. With the Sioux chief you are in fact further as the drain is larger (so it results in less of a "bend" in the liner which was one of your concerns).