Just replaced old main to exterior spigot valve in utility room with a comp valve. I cut as little as I possibly could off on either side of the old valve and replaced it with a new compression valve but there wasn't enough copper for the ring to seal. Had a very difficult time trying to squeeze the 2 ends closer and maybe over-tightened to keep the pipes from pulling apart. It leaks when opened. Do I need to replace the whole valve or can I seal it with quiksteel epoxy putty or something? Not a plumber (obviously)- help asap please and tysm. Will try uploading a pic if post is too vague.
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hj
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You CANNOT do what you did. You have to take it apart and, using new rings, install it with the proper space between the two pipes.
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I am not a plumber.
Leaking from the downstream connection? I would try tightening with a bigger wrench. I think you may need two big wrenches. It looks like you can put an open end wrench on the hex on the valve body.
Personally, I don't do as well with a pipe wrench as with a Milwaukee 48-22-7415.
If you can loosen the leaking end, I would use some Rectorseal #5 pipe compound inside around the ferrule and on threads. That will help lube to let things flow better. It will help the torque you can apply get more tightening. It may also offer a bit of sealing too. Silicone grease would also help your ability to torque to get things tighter.
Epoxy on the outside? Won't help.
Leaking from the downstream connection? I would try tightening with a bigger wrench. I think you may need two big wrenches. It looks like you can put an open end wrench on the hex on the valve body.
Personally, I don't do as well with a pipe wrench as with a Milwaukee 48-22-7415.
If you can loosen the leaking end, I would use some Rectorseal #5 pipe compound inside around the ferrule and on threads. That will help lube to let things flow better. It will help the torque you can apply get more tightening. It may also offer a bit of sealing too. Silicone grease would also help your ability to torque to get things tighter.
Epoxy on the outside? Won't help.
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I don't know that there is any way to overtighten a compression connector of that size with a common wrench, unless he has great strength. How big was the wrench? Given where he is now, more torque is called for. If that fails to stop the leaking, he can still do other things.
Tried tightening first since it sounded like an easy fix if that was the problem. Now it leaks on both sides of the valve. I'll take it apart and replace the rings. What's the best way to achieve making the pipe ends closer? Only need 1/8-3/8". Please advise asap.
I cut the pipes as close to the old valve as possible even though the new comp valve looked more than long enough. I knew what I was doing wasn't ideal but they seemed only a tad short. Do I cut the pipe more so I have room for coupling and short tubing piece? Doesn't seem like all this should even be necessary.
Why is there tension on the pipe? Can you change a clamp to remove that tension?
I would try adding rectorseal #5 and tightening with two big wrenches, or using silicone grease the same way. How big are your wrenches?
If you end up changing out the valve, consider solder. More foolproof IMO.
It's a tight spot and solder hates me. Were either not the case I'd probably have gone with that first to save a little on the cost. Using 2 adjustable wrenches -12"& 9". If it's tight enough, will the valve stop revolving on the pipe completely?
The pipe makes a right angle up into a joist bay so no, it won't move.
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