Water shutoff valve - replace, relocate, etc?

[Potatoes]

Hi all. I am getting ready to drywall the laundry room next week. The water main enters the house through the slab as pictured. Several years ago, the old gate valve was replaced prior the water company upgrading the water meter. That valve was replaced by a professional plumber. There is another old gate valve downstream from the water meter.

I would like to drywall as much as possible, but I do realize that I will need to create some sort of box over the area in order to cover it up or make it look finished.

My questions are as follows:

1) Does that old gate valve still need to be there considering there is a ball valve on the city side of the water meter? I know the new valve works as there has been a lot of copper lines run for the remodeling that is in progress.

2) If the valve needs to be there, would you replace it with a new valve or just leave it as is?

3) If it needs to be replaced, I would like to move it lower or closer to the water meter. Any suggestion on location?

I have attached a few pics to help.

Thanks!

 

[Basilisk]

I would be extremely surprised if a homeowner-side shutoff valve is not an absolute must when on city water, especially in IL, that is not exactly famous for its lax plumbing code.
You can't drywall in an existing valve, even if you don't intend to ever operate it, as it needs to be accessible. If I were you, I would put the new shutoff right after the first 90 after the meter, i.e. where you are holding the tape measure on the photo, and just drywall normally. The valve would remain accessible this way. I see that there's a coupling right after that elbow, so I personally would replace the entire section from the old gate valve to the grounding clamp, and use a street elbow to bring the shutoff further away from the future drywall. By the looks of it, everything should fit, a 3/4" sweat x sweat ball valve is less than 3 inches long. So, you'll need a valve, 2 couplings, 1 regular elbow and 1 street elbow (and pipe, of course).

Disclaimer: not a professional plumber

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Basilisk]

As expected:

A full-port shut-off valve shall be located near the curb or property line and immediately inside the building, on the inlet and outlet side of the water meter. When located underground, this valve shall be in a stop box or meter vault.

Ill. Admin. Code tit. 77, § 890.1190 - Water Supply Control Valves and Meter

www.law.cornell.edu

 

[Potatoes]

I would be extremely surprised if a homeowner-side shutoff valve is not an absolute must when on city water, especially in IL, that is not exactly famous for its lax plumbing code.
You can't drywall in an existing valve, even if you don't intend to ever operate it, as it needs to be accessible. If I were you, I would put the new shutoff right after the first 90 after the meter, i.e. where you are holding the tape measure on the photo, and just drywall normally. The valve would remain accessible this way. I see that there's a coupling right after that elbow, so I personally would replace the entire section from the old gate valve to the grounding clamp, and use a street elbow to bring the shutoff further away from the future drywall. By the looks of it, everything should fit, a 3/4" sweat x sweat ball valve is less than 3 inches long. So, you'll need a valve, 2 couplings, 1 regular elbow and 1 street elbow (and pipe, of course).

Disclaimer: not a professional plumber

I like how you are thinking. I didn’t look into the exact parts to get so thanks for that. Ideally I would like to put the valve after the first 90, but at first glance I didn’t see how the new valve would fit inside the space in front of the drywall.

Aside from the valve fitting solely in front of the drywall, I assume I would replace everything left of the brass nipple which has a clear plastic zip tie on it. It looks it’s all copper after the brass nipple. It looks like they are using some form teflon paste on the joint where the brass nipple joins with the copper female fitting.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Gate valves notoriously like to break after closing then opening the valve then stem breaks. Replace it with a good brass ball valve. Having the shut off after the meter prevents the entire home from draining if the meter ever had to be serviced or replaced.

 

[Reach4]

Gate valves notoriously like to break after closing then opening the valve the stem breaks. Replace it with a good brass ball valve. Having the shut off after the meter prevents the entire home from draining if the meter ever had to be serviced or replaced.

That whole-house inside valve also provides an accessible place to turn off the water, in case a pipe etc breaks.

 

[Potatoes]

That whole-house inside valve also provides an accessible place to turn off the water, in case a pipe etc breaks.

Agree. That’s how I have been turning off the water to run copper. Haven’t even touched the gate valve.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Id get rid of the old valve to me it dosent look like a gate but a globe . As far as needing the customer valve I think its required to install a shut off on the building main youve got a good shut off right there at the ball but Id add another close to the meter . sort of a win win to have that . could you save a buck who is going to give a damn probebly no one except the guy that changes out the meter , or mops up after him might cuz a bit.

 

[Potatoes]

I got it done today. I removed the old valve and put in a new valve on the horizontal section just after the first 90 degree turn after the water meter. Thanks again!

 

[Jeff H Young]

perfect nice job!