Cleanout Extension or new cleanout?

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Rossn

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My main drain stack turns to 1960's cast iron before going through the slab. It currently has a plastic cleanout plug (square) that doesn't easily budge, and it is recessed into the wall. I am tapping into the drain immediately above the cast iron today, for a washer drain.

Is the plug likely to be removable with enough force, or should I consider an extension or installing a cleanout higher-up?

The stack will be concealed behind tile. The cleanout currently points towards at the back of a laundry room cabinet. If I installed a cleanout higher up, it would be near the top of the interior of the cabinet, around 33".
 

Terry

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It's unlikely that you're going to find a good way to thread into an old fitting there. I would be okay having the cleanout higher while you are doing the new work.
 

Rossn

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Wow, you guys are really on-it today! Happy Memorial Day, by the way.

Wayne - I could, but that would involve grinding out the existing cast iron (or maybe diamond sawzall blade?) and at this point I probably need to do what I practically can without over complicating it. It probably would be the better solution, but I have a lot more work to do on this remodel! There is also a toilet that goes into the main line, beneath the slab leaving just a few feet inaccessible.

I'll just be able to squeeze in one up high with an extension bringing the cleanout an inch inside the cabinet. I'm still trying to figure out if there will be enough flex i the line to get that transition coupling in-place... hopefully so, else I'll have to cut somewhere else and us a slip coupling, but open to ideas.

Anyhow, getting ready to cut into it now!

draiage_stack_new_cleanout.jpg
 

wwhitney

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I'm still trying to figure out if there will be enough flex i the line to get that transition coupling in-place... hopefully so, else I'll have to cut somewhere else and us a slip coupling, but open to ideas.
If you can't flex the ABS up 1" - 1.5" to get the shielded coupling in (take off the shield, fold the ABS rubber side back over the outside of the copper rubber side), then the standard solution would be to use a second plastic-plastic shielded coupling up higher. With the folding back method, you can install a pipe segment cut ~ 3/8" shorter than the opening between fixed ends (the stop in the rubber is about 1/8" thick).

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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you said its a plastic plug it'll come out. id remove it clean it up and re install or replace to make sure it doesn't leak. and probably put an extension or access cover over it. the advantage of cleaning and re-doping the plug insures easier removal in event of needing to open it later
 

Rossn

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Thanks, Jeff. I did already add the 'alternate' cleanout, and on your point, might want to try a removal before the wall is close up. Just a little concerned if anything breaks :)

I've been looking all over as to if an ABS threaded cleanout plug should receive sealant or tape. I'm reading more than 2 wraps of teflon tape cause fracture and if using a sealant, to make sure if is plastic compatible and 'not too slippery' (that is a bit hard to gauge).

Do you all use any sealant or tape on threads of an ABS 3" cleanout?

Wayne, that fold-over-the-rubber trick worked like a charm!
 

Jeff H Young

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If it holds a test you could leave it as is. or perhaps a test plug is going in the lower clean out.
plastic plugs don't usually have too much trouble removing. if it breaks you can cut it , heat it up it bends easy.
many pipe dopes are plastic compatible and many aren't, so read the can. years ago an inspector told us good for plastic wasn't good enough he wanted to see ABS listed. around here a lot of plumbers use bowl wax on abs clean outs and plugs to pass test which is not approved not a good idea.
 
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