Bathtub install on remodel (with dry wall in place)

[Stuart Richman]

Hi,

What are the techniques to get a tub into the alcove during a remodel.

The alcove is 60", but with the drywall, (ahead of the alcove), the width is only 59"

Thank you

 

[Dj2]

"What are the techniques to get a tub into the alcove during a remodel."
- Anyway you can.
In a normal situation, the tub goes in first, then the drywall, tile, or whatever finish you have.
Think of it like this: Can you slip in socks on your feet with the shoes on?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

Regarding the picture on my posting above:
I HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS PICTURE AND I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT CAME FROM.

 

[Terry]

Regarding the picture on my posting above:
I HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS PICTURE AND I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT CAME FROM.

It's a cart before the horse picture. Doing it backwards. First you drywall the bathroom, and then you slip a tub in. Kind of like how I put on my socks in the morning. First I slip on my ski boots and buckle them up, then I wiggle a sock in from the top. If that doesn't work, I take off the boots and wear sandals. If someone comments, I put socks on. If you saw my toes, you would also want me wearing socks, and preferably shoes too. I will try the socks first and then shoes tomorrow though. It's getting harder and harder to put socks on after I've tied my shoe laces.

Maybe installing the tub between the wall studs like they do in new construction would help. Put a 60" tub inside a 60-1/4" wide opening, and then add the backer board after the tub is in and set. Maybe even removing the toilet would help since that is normally 15" on center to the tub.

 

[Stuart Richman]

This is a remodel so the drywall for the bathroom walls have not been removed. The old backer board within the the tub alcove has all been removed.

The 59" is the width right before going into the alcove.

The studs inside the alcove are 60" (allowing the bathtub to fit). The room width just before that is only 59" (if you subtract out the thickness of the dry wall) , thus eliminating the method to have the tub on the subfloor and slide it in.

I was looking for a technique or suggestion that others may have used

Thank you

 

[wwhitney]

If you are going to have a shower above the tub, then it makes sense to strip the alcove to the studs up to shower head height. That will let you install a waterproof tile backer and tie it into the tub properly. And it's best practice to have the tile wider than the tub, so that there is a leg of tile that goes down to the floor. In which case you can afford to remove drywall a couple inches wider than the tub width.

In that case, this may work: bring the tub in vertical, I think it will be better to have the drain end down. Arrange the tub so that tilting it down 90 degrees gets it into final position. As you tilt it down, the diagonal of the apron will be longer than 60", so you'll need to have an empty stud bay to accommodate that, possibly using that extra width of drywall removal. Also, the tub design needs to leave sufficient empty volume below the deck at the end that is on top when it's vertical, so that only the apron exceeds 60" horizontally at any point during the tilt.

Another option, if you can bring it through a door in its final orientation, is to remove all the drywall (and possibly door trim) below, say 24" AFF as needed to just slide it into place.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Terry]

Check out this link.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/installing-a-kohler-villager-cast-iron-tub.33212/

 

[Stuart Richman]

Thank you to everyone for your input..I'll try some of the techniques/suggestions. I've attached picture which I should have at my initial post..

 

[Jadnashua]

The lip on the tub may be close to 60", but it tapers away, sometimes by quite a bit on the ends, so you should be able to tip it into the alcove IF the walls in that area are free of any coverings. If you're trying to set it into the drain at the same time, it gets a lot harder!