Installing or setting a Kohler Villager Cast Iron Tub.
The Villager weighs in at 316 pounds.
It's best to bring it in with two men.
Four men would be okay too.
Once it's in the bathroom, I can set it into the alcove by myself without help.
I use a ledger board on the back wall, making sure it's level first.
Leave the tub in the crate, it stacks easier that way, and gives you some nice hand holds.
I like to center the tub at the hips, and lean it on my back. Then I have a guy or two hold the back of the crate and follow behind me.
I carry it like I'm giving someone a piggy back ride.
When I get it into the bathroom, I set it in vertically with the drain side down, with the open part of the bathing well towards the tub valve.
I make sure I have two 2x4's with me.
One, I place on the floor, this prevents the tub from falling all the way down, and can act like a pivot with the second 2x4
The 2x4 on the floor doesn't have to be real long.
On a remodel, the first thing you check for is floor level.
I measure out where the apron will hit, normally 30" from the back wall on a Villager and using a level find out which end is high. I then take the level and measure back for the back wall ledger board. Doing this means if there is a low end, that will need shimming.
Out of level somewhere requires something to prevent the wicked rocking. I often have to shim the front apron on an older remodel.
After I pull the crate off, I can start letting the tub drop back against the back wall. With the crate off, it will pull toward the back wall, and catch on the studs.
To get past the stud, I have to pull the tub toward me, and slid it by.
Almost there.
The Villager weighs in at 316 pounds.
It's best to bring it in with two men.
Four men would be okay too.
Once it's in the bathroom, I can set it into the alcove by myself without help.
I use a ledger board on the back wall, making sure it's level first.
Leave the tub in the crate, it stacks easier that way, and gives you some nice hand holds.
I like to center the tub at the hips, and lean it on my back. Then I have a guy or two hold the back of the crate and follow behind me.
I carry it like I'm giving someone a piggy back ride.
When I get it into the bathroom, I set it in vertically with the drain side down, with the open part of the bathing well towards the tub valve.
![tub_install_1.jpg](https://terrylove.com/images/tub_install_1.jpg)
I make sure I have two 2x4's with me.
One, I place on the floor, this prevents the tub from falling all the way down, and can act like a pivot with the second 2x4
The 2x4 on the floor doesn't have to be real long.
On a remodel, the first thing you check for is floor level.
I measure out where the apron will hit, normally 30" from the back wall on a Villager and using a level find out which end is high. I then take the level and measure back for the back wall ledger board. Doing this means if there is a low end, that will need shimming.
Out of level somewhere requires something to prevent the wicked rocking. I often have to shim the front apron on an older remodel.
![tub_install_2.jpg](https://terrylove.com/images/tub_install_2.jpg)
After I pull the crate off, I can start letting the tub drop back against the back wall. With the crate off, it will pull toward the back wall, and catch on the studs.
To get past the stud, I have to pull the tub toward me, and slid it by.
![tub_install_4.jpg](https://terrylove.com/images/tub_install_4.jpg)
Almost there.
![tub_install_5.jpg](https://terrylove.com/images/tub_install_5.jpg)
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