Will a grinder or reciprocating saw cut 1/8" thick steel well casing?

[MG70]

1970's house that's new to me. I need to clean and disinfect the well and install a new cap. Pump is working and it's producing water. Someone previously tightened the well cap to the point that it broke a piece off the cap and, sadly, seriously dented the other two bolt contact points on the rim of the casing. He must've used a torque gun.

Anyhow, I'm wondering if anyone has successfully cut a ring around a steel well casing with either a grinder like a Dewalt DWE402 or a large corded reciprocating saw (aka Sawzall), and if so, if you have any tips or suggestions. I plan to plug the opening and measure and draw a line around the casing, and use duct tape as a guide. Height is 12" off the ground. I don't know what the state of Maryland height requirements are, I forgot to measure how much I need to trim but it's probably 1.5-2" or enough to remove the bent metal.

Casing seems to be 6 1/4" I.D,. and 6 1/2" O.D. which, from shopping for a cap, doesn't seem a common size these days.

If you have any suggestions for size and model or style of well cap, I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance for any help and a safe weekend to all!

 

[Valveman]

Want to leave it as tall as possible. If it bent in that easy, it will bend out easy as well. I would get a big Cresent wrench and have it straightened out in a few minutes.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MG70]

Thanks for the suggestion! I have a couple of big wrenches of the adjustable and pipe varieties and would be extremely happy if I were able to straighten that out with just them!

Another question, and please keep in mind this is my first house with a well. I'm not convinced that the style of cap pictured is enough to not let insects in even if the rim was very straight? Should I look for a well cap with a rubber gasket, or cover the opening with a mesh, or perhaps apply silicone around the rim after properly disinfecting it?

Thanks again for the quick reply and I hope everyone has a safe weekend!

 

[Reach4]

Casing seems to be 6 1/4" I.D,. and 6 1/2" O.D. which, from shopping for a cap, doesn't seem a common size these days.

If you have any suggestions for size and model or style of well cap, I'm all ears.

Are you sure the OD is not 6-5/8? That is a more common size for well caps.

You want a "sanitary" well cap. Those have a piece that stays with the casing, where you can caulk/seal up that piece to the casing and electrical conduit. That would also have a fine stainless steel screen that excludes small insects including the tiny ants. I had to supplement my vent screen with a finer mesh screen. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/blocking-tiny-ants-in-well-cap.100548/ is where I described that.

Protect Your Well and Solve One Coliform Problem-$100

My Well I received a comment/question on my blog that said: “There is a hole in the half moon well plate thru which one can pour Clorox ...

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[MG70]

Thank you for the suggestion! That sanitary cap sure looks to seal better. I'll look for one of those. I think electrical connections were wire nuts, so don't think a splicing kit is necessary.

I spent more time measuring the ID and believe it to be 6 1/4", but I'll remeasure both next time I'm there. Assuming casing wall thicknesses are standard, please post if there's a corresponding OD for a casing with a 6 1/4" ID.

ETA. The current cap is marked 6 5/8 on the underside, but perhaps because of the damage to the casing, it didn't feel right at all. Maybe that's the correct size! I'll try it after hopefully being able to straighten the casing rim.

Thanks again and have a safe weekend!

 

[Reach4]

The concern with the electrical is that the wires join the well without allowing bugs.

To measure OD, try running a thin wire or cord around the casing. Mark the meeting place. Measure the length, and divide by pi.

 

[MG70]

Excellent suggestion! Much obliged!

 

[pcmeiners]

Had a damaged 6" casing as above, but worse, from using a rental skidsteer which had no mirrors. Large Ridgid hex wrench (20") did absolutely nothing even with jumping my 226 lbs full weight on it. My torch equipment is not setup as I would have heated the areas to red hot before using the wrenches. With a stainless band as a guide, I cut off 6" with a diamond blade on a 4" grinder, took about 20 minutes . Once the pipe was cut I still had a little indention of the pipe, a hammer did nothing, but a 12 lb sledge got the pipe in shape ( carefully! ). Casing is now lower than "minimum" 12" but there is absolutely no possible of water buildup on my property, pipe is on the crest of a hill. New sanitary seal as above...finished.

A Sawzall would likely do it but would take a lot longer and multiple blades, casing pipe is relatively hard. It would have been a bit of a strain as it would need constant pressure on the blade.

Ps... The electric work looks exactly like mine, wonder if the same guy did it ?

 

[MG70]

pcmeiners, it could have very well been the same guy, or his cousin!

Luckily Valveman's suggestion worked perfectly and I was able to straighten out the bent casing rim in a few minutes with a big adjustable wrench!

I'm still shopping for a sanitary cap and since the best that I could measure the casing rim after bending it back into shape was 6 1/2" O.D., I'm thinking that perhaps it's best to stick with the same 6 5/8" diameter as the current, broken cap.

The mangled portion of the SIDR (black pipe with the wiring back to the switch inside the house) measured 1 1/4" OD next to the well head. I've found a couple of cast iron sanitary caps with a 1" "conduit tap size" for about $70 each, but I have not been able to locate one for a 1 1/4" OD pipe. I'm guessing one solution is to find a suitable 1 1/4" to 1" adapter to screw onto the sanitary cap and glue or silicone onto the current mangled SIDR. The description for the Simmons sanitary caps says it's 1" NPT threads, the ones for the Water Source and Merrill don't specify the standard for their 1" "conduit tap size" but I assume most sold in the US will be NPT pattern.

Q: I found a 1" MPT to 1 1/4" Sch 40 PVC adapter that may work for the above application, but I was wondering if anyone who has done this can recommend a darker material that will better match the SIDR and that is more resistant to UV rays than regular PVC?

Thanks in advance and a safe weekend to all!

 

[Reach4]

Q: I found a 1" MPT to 1 1/4" Sch 40 PVC adapter that may work for the above application, but I was wondering if anyone who has done this can recommend a darker material that will better match the SIDR and that is more resistant to UV rays than regular PVC?

PVC painted black would be good for part of your requirements. 1-1/4 schedule 80 is only 1.255 ID, so it will not fit over 1 inch SIDR. It is gray, sun resistant, and can be threaded.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-...ed-Insert-Reducing-Male-Adapter-MIPT-x-Insert would fit into 1 inch SIDR. You would have to screw into the adapter to the well cap. Then heat the SIDR gently, and work it in. Not sure how that would work.

For filling any gaps, consider duct seal. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/blocking-tiny-ants-in-well-cap.100548/

Also, if you have an insect screen in your cap, you may want to consider adding a smaller mesh screen to work with that.

 

[MG70]

Excellent suggestions! I don't know the ID of the 1 1/4" end of the Sch40 adapter, but I can always use a larger size and seal the gap. I rather use something to slip over the SIDR, as opposed to into it; it just seams easier, with less chance of interference with the wiring, and it covers the chewed up edges of the SIDR that was probably cut with lineman's pliers. I've read about using duct seal around holes for wires going into the house, on HVAC, etc., even though I believe it's not meant to be used exposed to the elements, and for years I have personally used it with great success for replacing worn sponge seals around automotive license plate light covers, for example.

I may research your mesh screen method after buying a suitable sanitary cap.

Thanks again and have a good evening!

ETA, painting the PVC isn't a problem, and I do plan on brushing, priming, and painting the exposed, rusty, casing, or using that rust converter chemical and priming, painting, etc.

 

[Reach4]

I have not looked lately, but brush-on POR 15 worked OK for me. The basic stuff can go over rust. Goes on black. If you don't put on a topcoat it weathers to a dark gray. Some like it better than the Rustolium primer. You can search for current opinions.