Water heater won't drain

[drew53813]

Trying to do routine maintenance on my 6 year old GE water heater but it just won't drain. I have tried turning the main water shutoff valve off, opening a water faucet to hot, and releasing the pressure relief valve. the water just dribbles out and doesnt come out full force. I also tried flushing the valve by forcing water back into the drain valve. Any advice would be helpful.

 

[Terry]

Have you left the water on to the water heater and then opened the drain?
This is what we do to force water through to get things flowing. Sometimes there is enough sediment in the lower part of the tank that will keep the drain from doing it's job.

In this case, there was so much sediment that nothing was coming out of the drain. I took a washing machine hose, which has two female ends and ran it to the drain at the bottom. At the top, I undid the hot outlet and pointed it to a safe location. Turning the water on and forcing the drain clear with reverse pressure. After doing this, the "stuck" water heater drained freely.
I remove the washer hose, hooked up my garden hose and it drained fairly quickly.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

If you can deal with gushing uncontrolled water, you could remove the drain faucet and let water etc flow out. If you don't want that, let the water dribble out. Then remove the drain faucet, and replace it, at least temporarily, with something that is more free flowing.

The thread is 3/4 NPT.

 

[drew53813]

Have you left the water on to the water heater and then opened the drain?
This is what we do to force water through to get things flowing. Sometimes there is enough sediment in the lower part of the tank that will keep the drain from doing it's job.

 

[drew53813]

I have tried leaving the water on while trying to drain the tank. It still won't drain. lettinfnit all drain out isint an option because it's in my garage. I could let it dribble just seems like it would take forever.

 

[Reach4]

Well, you could remove the anode with an impact wrench (1-1/8 socket). Siphon or pump out the water out. Remove the drain valve, and at least clean it. Better yet, use something more free flowing.

Alternate turning on the water supply, and then drain. Then spray into the open anode hole. Drain. Repeat if you are still getting stuff.

Replace the anode with a new one. Use Teflon tape, but don't torque down the anode with nearly as much torque as it took to pull it. I would use about 15 lb-ft. That will cut thru the Teflon and permit the electrical connection.

 

[Jadnashua]

Sounds like the drain valve is plugged up, or the whole bottom of the tank is coated with enough mineral deposits to block it off. IF it won't flow with the inlet water still on, you may need to remove the drain valve and then prod in there with something to try to break apart the mineral deposits. If it's that bad after 6-years, it may be time to consider a water softener.

 

[Dj2]

If you never drained your 6 year old WH before, don't drain it now.
Just use it till it quits.
When it does, you will have to drain it, to be able to move it out, do deal with it later.

 

[DonL]

If you never drained your 6 year old WH before, don't drain it now.
Just use it till it quits.
When it does, you will have to drain it, to be able to move it out, do deal with it later.

I agree. That is what I don't do. Mine is 20+ years old. I do not mess with the rod either.

Preventive maintenance can become Promote maintenance on many water heaters.

If I needed it emptied fast I would apply air pressure. Or you just have to wait for gravity.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Something like these pics is what is in you heater. Notice where the drain is and the mineral deposits are.
https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...agyerUAhWE8CYKHaD0BTcQ7AkIPg&biw=1427&bih=629

 

[Terry]

In this case, there was so much sediment that nothing was coming out of the drain. I took a washing machine hose, which has two female ends and ran it to the drain at the bottom. At the top, I undid the hot outlet and pointed it to a safe location. Turning the water on and forcing the drain clear with reverse pressure. After doing this, the "stuck" water heater drained freely.
I remove the washer hose, hooked up my garden hose and it drained out fairly quickly.

 

[LLigetfa]

I would not mess with the anode unless you planned on replacing it. I suppose with an electric, you could unscrew the lower element and screw a hose bib in its place and then let air in the top. That should get about 3/4 of the water out.

If I had my druthers, I would have replaced that dinky plastic drain with a quality brass full port ball valve when the tank was new. Only thing keeping me from doing it now is that it is in a tight spot and I worry about messing it up.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

I would not mess with the anode unless you planned on replacing it. I suppose with an electric, you could unscrew the lower element and screw a hose bib in its place and then let air in the top. That should get about 3/4 of the water out.

If I had my druthers, I would have replaced that dinky plastic drain with a quality brass full port ball valve when the tank was new. Only thing keeping me from doing it now is that it is in a tight spot and I worry about messing it up.

sometimes if you unscrew the handle and throw a lond coat hanger kind of wire
back into the heater it finally will break free the crap that is stuck in the drain valve

but many times we cannot get these things to drain easily....
the only thing that works is to take out that crappy plastic drain
on the bottom and install a 3/4 nipple and a full port ball valve with a hose adaptor
to tie in a hose to....

of course you might flood the room out when you do this so be
careful what you ask for

 

[Terry]

Sometimes if you unscrew the handle and throw a lond coat hanger kind of wire
back into the heater it finally will break free the crap that is stuck in the drain valve. Of course you might flood the room out when you do this so be
careful what you ask for.

So I take it you haven't tried reversing the water flow yet. It's the first time I've ever done that, and it worked very well.
I could not move the tank at all as it was in a pan that I could not lift over. Second floor with carpet over other condo units below. It worked perfectly and not a speck of dirt anywhere when I was done.

How did you get the water heater outside? Mine was 500 pounds with water in it.
I do like the picture you posted.

 

[LLigetfa]

I also tried flushing the valve by forcing water back into the drain valve...

Looks like the OP tried that to no avail.

On my WH, the drain valve has a sharp right angle to it so it doesn't look like it would take a coat hanger unless I removed the whole valve and being plastic with not much to grab onto, it is not something I'm open to try. The valve doesn't even have a handle, just wrench flats.

I could try the reversing flow trick. Maybe injecting a bit of air into the water stream would really stir things up. I do that on the line between my precipitation tank and the iron filter when it clogs up with iron sludge. Air can move much faster through a constriction and a blend of air and water is kind of like violent boiling which really stirs things up.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

So I take it you haven't tried reversing the water flow yet. It's the first time I've ever done that, and it worked very well.
I could not move the tank at all as it was in a pan that I could not lift over. Second floor with carpet over other condo units below. It worked perfectly and not a speck of dirt anywhere when I was done.

How did you get the water heater outside? Mine was 500 pounds with water in it.
I do like the picture you posted.

Terry, It sounds like a good idea but still you are only pushing back a bunch of
sand and sludge with the pressure....of course it can work but then again the
sludge can just roll back down the line and clog the whole thing up again......

something else you can do on the SECOND FLOOR of a home.. you take a peice of 1/2 pex about
10 foot long and put it down the top of the heater through the T+p port.....
then you suck on the end of this pipe and get a siphon going....it will siphon about 90% of the water
out of a heater in a very fast pace down the drain
.... you keep pushing the pipe down until you hit the sludge... eventually you will win


if the unit is full of sludge,, its not gonna be pretty what ever you do....

 

[Terry]

Mark,
1/2" PEX to siphon the tank? I like that idea. One more way to drain those stubborn tanks.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Mark,
1/2" PEX to siphon the tank? I like that idea. One more way to drain those stubborn tanks.

It works faster than you would think it would and you get a full 1/2 stream almost
under pressure coming out of the end of the pex..... you just have to take off the t+p valve on top or
the hot nipple out of the heater and you are good to go....

you might get a good hunk of lime or goo in your mouth when you suck on the hose to get it to siphon, but that is part of the plumbing adventure. and excitement in being a plumber......lol

I have gotten myself out of some mean, mean situations that would have
taken literally HOURS to get the damn thing to drain out without doing damage to the home by just doing the same thing we used
to do to steal gas way back when we were kids.....