Water Heater air release valve

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Reach4

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When your WH is on the lowest floor/basement, I would not put in a vacuum relief unless the local laws called for it. For a WH in an attic or upper floor, then it is called for.

The same considerations apply to a water softener. I don't have a vacuum relief for the water softener either.

But as a way to make the WH drain faster, I would not bother. If opening the tub hot does not provide fast enough flow, then I expect the valve or debris at the valve to be the limiting factor. I would try blowing out the debris by turning on the water and letting the water pressure push. But I still think opening the T&P temporarily is fine to admit air.
 

Jeff H Young

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a vacuum relief valve is to protect a waterheater under certain conditions . its purpose isn't to allow a tank to drain even though it would have that benefit. The valve in Bobs post would do job as would a tee with plug in it on cold side between SOV and water heater
 
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I don't mess with T&P. I don't test them unless a customer asks me to. then I tell them there is a good chance it wont shut off all the way. I avoid using old gate valves as well

I operate TPR's and gate and multi-turn angle stops on purpose, so they stay loose and operable. Leave a gate valve for 10 years unoperated and chances are it will not be operable when needed. Yes, there's risk, disclosed, that operating the valve will push it over the edge.
 

Reach4

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I operate TPR's and gate and multi-turn angle stops on purpose, so they stay loose and operable. Leave a gate valve for 10 years unoperated and chances are it will not be operable when needed. Yes, there's risk, disclosed, that operating the valve will push it over the edge.
Yes, but that is part of the test-- does it close back up.
 

Jeff H Young

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I operate TPR's and gate and multi-turn angle stops on purpose, so they stay loose and operable. Leave a gate valve for 10 years unoperated and chances are it will not be operable when needed. Yes, there's risk, disclosed, that operating the valve will push it over the edge.
In which case just use your T&P when draining down your heater if it leaks just change valve
 

jadnashua

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My city requires a vacuum breaker on an inspected, permitted WH replacement. Mine's never leaked, but I haven't really tested it to see if it actually opens. They also require a mixing valve.
 

LLigetfa

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In which case just use your T&P when draining down your heater if it leaks just change valve
When I had my water heater replaced, the installer tried to open the TPR to get it to drain faster but the TPR was seized and plugged with limescale. Apparently it had been leaking slowly and corroding/building up limescale. The leak was small enough that it evaporated and so did not drip.
 

Reach4

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When I had my water heater replaced, the installer tried to open the TPR to get it to drain faster but the TPR was seized and plugged with limescale. Apparently it had been leaking slowly and corroding/building up limescale. The leak was small enough that it evaporated and so did not drip.
It was fortunate that that came up.
 
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