Clean inside a Water Heater

[Bob from accounting]

I have flushed my water heater, multiple times. The popping and banging inside by 5 year old Rhem WH must have major sentiment at the bottom due to hard water. I have turned down the heat as well. It is possible that sediment falls to the bottom when I changed out my Anode rod each year also per manufacture instruction?
I am looking for a level 02 level 03 cleaning rather than the typical approach of flushing it. I have already done a full pressure flush and a drain out not under pressure. Two ways I flush it.

The 1" drain valve at the bottom is soldered to a 3/4" reducer valve (copper) that branches to a circ pump.
So I only have access at the bottom through a 3"4 valve opening rather than the standard 1". I can not remove the valve with out unsoldering.
I would need to unsolder the loop to unscrew the 1" nipple out of the WH.
I want to just stick a pex pipe or something inside the 3/4" valve to brush or dig around at the bottom of the tank.
Can I put a 3/4" pex pipe inside a 3/4" copper pipe. I was hoping to use my shot vac. But it is possible the 3/4 valve I want to enter through is too small to stick an adapted shotVac extension nozzle.
Trying to think of what I can stick through the 3/4" copper valve to suck up the sediment in there. This thing is only 5 years old and I flush it and replace the anode rod. So loud with sediment. Pop Bang snap. All day long. Sounds like the dryer is tumbling coins and belts and shoes. They I realize that is the WH and not a dryer drum spinning junk around.

 

[Bgard]

Time for a new water heater! The sediment in the bottom of the water heater has become solid ( like glazed tile) the poping is from water seeping through cracks in it and becoming trapped between the steel bottom of the tank and the hard sediment, when the burner comes on that water flashes to steam creating the noise, once the bottom of the tank is coated it is doomed to failure, when the bottom of the tank is not in DIRECT contact with the water the heat from the flame cannot be transferred to the water, so the steel becomes overheated and starts to deteriorate, then you get leaks.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

You could not put a 3/4 pex pipe thru a 3/4 inch copper pipe. You could run a 1/2 inch pex.

You could get a fair spray of water with even a 3/8 OD copper pipe. A 3/8 ID copper pipe (fairly rare) or 1/2 inch copper pipe (common) should fit. You could use soft copper to shape the pipe the way you wanted.

I have thought about putting a tub under the valve. Run a pipe thru the valve, and let the water come out into the valve into the tub. Then have some kind of pump to pressurize the pump. Some pressure washers can draw from a container. If the tub is big enough, you could put a 1/2 HP submersible well pump in the tub, and that would flow the water nicely.


You could also pull the T&P relief valve, and quirt water in that way. If you recirculate the water, you don't fill up your septic tank or pay for a lot of city water-- whichever might be of concern to you.

Here is something I have written:
=================
Water heater (WH) flushing can be done different ways. The simplest is to
1. Turn off the WH water, and put the WH in vacation mode, if it has one. Otherwise off.
2. Open a hot water tap to pass air.
3. Drain the WH completely. Usually you would use a hose to direct the water. (Take a look at the first water; it may be impressive.)
4. Turn the water supply on fully for a few seconds, and turn off. You are trying to cause turbulence to the bottom of the tank.
5. Do steps 3 and 4 several times. If you have a way to monitor the drained water, you could judge by what you are getting out.
6. Turn on the water and expel the air. Close the hot water tap once the air has been expelled and just water is coming out.
7. Turn the WH back on. It is not that critical with gas, but it is important that the water level is above the top element before turning the power to the WH back on.

I replaced my plastic drain valve with several parts: nipple, full
flow drain valve, GHT adapter. There is now available a brass full
flow drain valve, which I would have used instead.

https://parts.rheem.com/category/rh-water-heater-drain-valves

Wand: Camco 40103 25.5 inches long.

 

[Sarg]

Advised to forget ANY compression type drain valves. They will not pass any large sediment. Kinda like peeing in a fan.
Go with a 3/4 ball valve made for passing the sediment.

 

[Sarg]

The 1" drain valve at the bottom is soldered to a 3/4" reducer valve (copper) that branches to a circ pump.
So I only have access at the bottom through a 3"4 valve opening rather than the standard 1".

Strange .... I've never seen a 1 inch drain valve on any heater . The norm is 3/4" pipe threads.

 

[Jeff H Young]

what is 02 and 03 cleanning ? 3/4 drains yes 3/4 pex = 3/4 copper on the od so no they wont fit inside each other just like 3/4 copper wont fit inside 3/4 copper.
This would be a project to clean out I experimented on my own its now 6 years old I must have went through a 100 gallons water shop vav, I even fired it up a few times (gas) dont do that on electric youll burn out elements. I wasent that staisfied im getting some popping as well I might give it a second treatment just dont want to buy another heater I think I waited too long , but my tank is all set up since a year ago a fullport ball valve new anode etc.

 

[Fitter30]

Calci-flush Standard Tank Water Heater Flush

1 Gallon Calci-flush

rectorseal.com

There is video on you tube and this add

 

[Jeff H Young]

Another product Master Mark was talking about trying out its called turbo tank cleaner also on You tube and Amazon

 

[Bob from accounting]

See

Another product Master Mark was talking about trying out its called turbo tank cleaner also on You tube and Amazon

The turbo tank clean requires you to remove your flush valve nipple to function. In my earlier post I had indicated this is a limitation for me. However when I saw this a few years ago, it did make me wonder if I could stick something homemade up through the 3/4" valve.

 

[Bob from accounting]

It seems that this is a problem that I need to address. I am going to continue to try some interim fixes prior to spending over $1300 to buy and install a new one. Seems like the calci-flush, poured down the anode rod hole would be worth trying out first.
But it does seem like if this does not work I will need to buy a new WH as the sediment build up may be glazed over too bad.
It is sad as it is in overall good shape and well maintained. Flushing, replaced anode rods and watched over. 5 years old. Yet then the tank that was hear perviously was 17 years old and the previous homeowner never did anything to it. The irony.

 

[Jeff H Young]

See

The turbo tank clean requires you to remove your flush valve nipple to function. In my earlier post I had indicated this is a limitation for me. However when I saw this a few years ago, it did make me wonder if I could stick something homemade up through the 3/4" valve.

I know that Bob well I thought you might be concidering more agressive attempts or others reading thread might have interest.
smaller copper or plastic tubing might be worth a try. or even vinegar , citric acid or something marketed such as fitter 30 suggested a possibilty

 

[Reach4]

Checking. This is a gas WH, right?

 

[Bob from accounting]

Checking. This is a gas WH, right?

Rheem gas. PROG40-38U.
Heavy sentiment build up on bottom.
Next step is to try one or all of the solvents suggested here before replacing.