Washing Machine Box Installation Help

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by jimdeprado, Aug 26, 2008.

  1. jimdeprado

    jimdeprado New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2008
    I am in the final stages of roughing in our basement bathroom and laundry room. I will post some pictures when I am done. This board has been a tremendous help to me....the work would have taken me 3 or 4 times as long to figure out and get right. I have some questions before I finish running all of the drains/vents/supply lines.

    1) I have installed the washing machine box in a stud cavity 36" above the floor, next to the washing machine/dryer combo unit. My plan is to run a 2" drain down to a p-trap then over to the next stud bay (where the drain goes to the floor and the vent goes to the ceiling. Is there a height requirement for the p-trap? Does it have to be a certain height above the floor or below the washing machine box?

    2) When I run the hot/cold CPVC supply lines to the box, I need to run them through some studs. Do I have to use those plastic insulators at each hole? I got some from a local plumbing supply house and the instructions state to drill a 1 3/8" hole for both the 1/2" and 3/4" insulators. This seems really big to me. Does this sound reasonable? If I drill the holes, do I need to but metal plates on the stud to prevent a screw going into the pipes?

    3) When the builder built my house he capped off a 1 1/2" vent pipe which is stubbed out in the joists in the ceiling. It is located about 10 feet away from the bathroom/laundry room. Is there a maximum amount of 90 degree turns that I can make within a certain distance on the vent run? Also, I need to transition from 2" to 1 1/2" at some point? Should I run 2" as far as I can and transition right before connecting to the 1 1/2" pipe stubbed out in the ceiling? Or can I transition to 1 1/2" by the fixtures and run 1 1/2" all the way through the ceiling.

    Thanks in advance for your help,

    Jim dePrado
     
  2. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2007
    Occupation:
    Service Plumber
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Jim your washing machine drain needs to be 2" into a larger drain not reduce to 1 1/2".
    Drain lines can get bigger but never smaller.
     
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  4. jimdeprado

    jimdeprado New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2008
    Sorry for the confusion. My drain is 2" all the way to the 3" run under my slab. The 2" drain will go straight down from the box to a 2" p-trap. From there is will go over to the next stud bay to a 2" t fitting. Below the t-fitting is the 2" drain that goes into the floor. Right now I have a 2"x1.5"x2" fitting. So going up from the fitting is a 1 1/2" vent pipe. Does this make sense? Should I get a 2"x2"x2" fitting and run a 2" vent?
     
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    box

    The vent can be 1 1/2". The 1 3/8" holes are proper for most pipe holders. The nail plates must be used when the pipes are within 1 1/2" of the wall stud surface regardless of whether you notch or drill for the pipes.
     
  6. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]
    Washer drain with 2" trap for washer and 1.5" vent.
    Holes for water are drilled 1-3/8"
    Hammer arrestors on shutoffs.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2010
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