Washer Box Installation

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Thomas K

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Hi! I paid plumber to install this washer box for stacked washer/dryer. I'd like to see if anyone sees any code violations here. I don't think that 2" pipe should've gone through vertical stud, but that's what he did.

Would it help if I move that washer box farther to right, install a new sanitary tee on box side of stud, and sister stud for support? I can easily move vent pipe toward right and drill new hole into floor plate.

That's the only way I can think of to make this work, unless I just add a stud shoe and nail plates and let it ride. This is a non-load-bearing wall, but cement board on it holds tile on shower side of this wall.
 

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wwhitney

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What is the exact size of the hole and it's location on the stud? If it were a centered 2-1/2" hole, I'd be comfortable just putting a HSS2-SDS1.5 on it. But it looks to be off center; is there any wood left on the backside?

Since it's alongside the tub, do you have any space between the backside of tub and the stud, above the hole, to apply a reinforcement?

BTW, is that a future shower niche which is already tiled except for the backsurface, which is currently open between the shower and laundry? It seems to me it will be a bit tricky to tie the waterproofing on the back surface of the niche into the waterproofing on the bottom of the niche.

Cheers, Wayne

washer-box-lake-stevens.jpg
 
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Thomas K

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Hole looks to be 2 1/2". There is about 1/4" of wood left on the tub side of stud, 3/4" on the other. Why he didn't center it, I don't know. It's sloppy. There is about 2" between edge of tub and top of hole in stud, so I can probably fit a stud reinforcement in there.

BTW, is that a future shower niche which is already tiled except for the backsurface, which is currently open between the shower and laundry? It seems to me it will be a bit tricky to tie the waterproofing on the back surface of the niche into the waterproofing on the bottom of the niche.

Yes, that is a finished tile shower wall on other side, except for grout. Tile man (who is no longer associated with this project) didn't cut tile wide enough to reach end of wall, ripped last row back out, and damaged a section of cement board when he did it. I removed bad section with Sawzall, leaving just enough Redgarded board to butt new section up to, then added a 2 x 4 reinforcement behind seam. I will have to tape and thinset this section, and then carefully Redgard over old and new. Back of niche was drywall, which I removed to add reinforcing 2 x 4. He'd just Redgarded the drywall, and tiled directly to it.

I'm planning to carefully remove the two remaining tile sides of the niche, repair it, and Redgard entire niche again.
 

Thomas K

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After careful thought, and Wayne's suggestion that it will be difficult to re-Redgard the niche area, I demoed the entire wall this afternoon, leaving just enough redgarded material in corner to butt new cement board up to, retape, and Redgard entire area.

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Thomas K

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Wayne: I ordered a Simpson Strong Tie hss2-sds1.5 stud shoe tonight. I'll replace that stud this weekend, drilling hole in exact center, rejoin pipe and add stud shoe for reinforcement.
 

Mr tee

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The stud is clearly not bearing so the hole location is not important. There should, however, be safety plates to protect the PVC from nails. The plumbing is a bit sloppy (the vent looks like it is under stress) and the framing odd.
 

hj

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YOu should have just left it alone. There was NOTHING wrong with the installation. It is just how I have done it for 65 years. NO sistere, NO stud reinforment, NO "centered holes, but definitely nail plate protection.
 

Thomas K

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I haven't removed anything yet. Code stipulates that you're not supposed to have a 2 1/2" hole in a 2 x 4 stud, and the 2" drain pipe runs through stud at bottom.Or maybe I'm wrong. This was installed by a licensed plumber, but looks like he didn't make vent pipe long enough.

However, HJ, I am not going to question a Master Plumber, and will treat you with respect because you know a lot more than I do.

Looking under that cast iron tub after removing drywall in washer box area, I see that no ledger board was installed, either, after I asked for one three different times.
 
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Terry

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Pretty much all I ever had to install plumbing in was a 2x4 wall. A 2-9/16" was my most used drill bit. I would have loved having some 2x6 plumbing walls to work with. When I was building homes, my center wall was a 2x6 which allowed me to drop plumbing down from the upper floor without having drywall bend around my 3" fittings. I also had 2x6 exterior walls which was considered weird at the time. This was mid 80's.

sd-5171-01.jpg
 

Thomas K

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Terry: Thanks for the advice! I can still get at the tub area from open walls in front and back of tub. Can I slide a ledger 2 x 4 in there and screw it to outermost wall studs behind tub?
 

Terry

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It might be easier to sister some verticals alongside the studs rather than go horizontal.
I used to do the verticals alot on new construction when the flooring was still level. On remodels, I went to the horizontal ledger because flooring gets so out of wack over time.
 

Jeff H Young

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I've drilled a thousand 2 9/16 holes in 2x4 non bearing not an issue one stud no big deal . 2 x6 wall what's that
 

Thomas K

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I thought I'd post some photos of what I did last weekend.
 

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