The wet wall from hell

[bigb56]

Doing my kitchen/laundry remodel and this is what was inside the laundry wall. It is only a 4" wall and originally would have had 2" cast iron inb there for the washer and laundry tub. The kitchen joins in under the house. 2 of the studs in this LOAD BEARING wall were doing absolutely nothing, the one with all the foam and the next one where there was a knot behind the pipe that had fell out so the stud was literally in 2 pieces.

The wall really needed to be 2x6 but I can't make that work so I bought some 2x6's and made my own 2x5's on the table saw LOL. So I gained an inch, and I bored the holes with hole saws so at least there'd be some meat on both sides. I also used 1.5" for the laundry tub so I could bore smaller holes in those studs. (I know 2" would have been better but it was the pipe or the framing and I chose the framing. A section of it has been 1.5" anyway and we never had an issue.) The double with the spacer has a larger hole through 1/2 the first stud to fit the hub, then it reduces down and the 2nd stud has a 2" hole. I had to space those 2 apart because the shoe doesn't fit over a hub. I used the heavy duty Simpson stud shoes which are way thicker than the regular ones and they have an angle which gives them a lot of strength. I think it will do. The washer box will go in the left bay.

(Yes I know I'm missing a nail plate)

 

[John Gayewski]

Looks good to me.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[bigb56]

Coming off the 2" stack there is an ABS adapter reducing it to 1.5" , a short piece of 1.5" ABS then a no hub is used to attach the original galvanized vent stack which is only 1.25", the no hub is a 1.5" x 1.5" so it fits poorly. The vent is for the washer, laundry sink and kitchen sink. The kitchen sink is 8 feet away and is all 2" ABS but doesn't have it's own vent stack due to a picture window and there is no easy way to add an AAV due to the recessed plumbing niche in the double brick wall.

Now that being said we have never had an issue, but still I'd like to increase the vent stack size at least to 1.5" to eliminate the section of galvanized and maybe 2" if it will fit the roof jack without major work. The roof is mission tile and the jacks are lead. Just by coincidence my roofer will be here Monday and I'm going to ask him if we can fit a larger pipe without major work. Will 1.5" be good or is there any good reason to go 2" if not that much more work?

 

[John Gayewski]

As a vent for a laundry sink and washing machine 1.5 is fine. A toilet should have a2"vent. The house should have 3".Going through the roof 3"is required where snow and ice can close the piping. There's some info for you, you can decide if you wanna change it.

A kitchen sink needs a vent.

 

[wwhitney]

a short piece of 1.5" ABS then a no hub is used to attach the original galvanized vent stack which is only 1.25", the no hub is a 1.5" x 1.5" so it fits poorly.

If you figure out that you want to keep the existing 1.25" galvanized vent, there is a shielded rubber coupling made that will fit properly, it's Proflex 3001-150 or Mission Rubber CK-115. That's 1.5" Schedule 40 to 1.5" copper or 1.25" Schedule 40, as the latter two have very similar ODs (1.625" vs 1.660").

As to adding an AAV for the kitchen sink, it could be in the cabinet under the sink, e.g. on the 1-1/2" tubular portion of the trap arm.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[bigb56]

As a vent for a laundry sink and washing machine 1.5 is fine. A toilet should have a2"vent. The house should have 3".Going through the roof 3"is required where snow and ice can close the piping. There's some info for you, you can decide if you wanna change it.

A kitchen sink needs a vent.

Thank you. The house main is 4" and I've only seen snow here about 4 times in the 55 years I've lived here, and it was gone before noon.

 

[bigb56]

If you figure out that you want to keep the existing 1.25" galvanized vent, there is a shielded rubber coupling made that will fit properly, it's Proflex 3001-150 or Mission Rubber CK-115. That's 1.5" Schedule 40 to 1.5" copper or 1.25" Schedule 40, as the latter two have very similar ODs (1.625" vs 1.660").

As to adding an AAV for the kitchen sink, it could be in the cabinet under the sink, e.g. on the 1-1/2" tubular portion of the trap arm.

Cheers, Wayne

Why was I thinking the AAV has to be above the flood rim? Was this ever the case? Or are you saying to tee it into the trap arm in a place where it can be extended up to the highest point possible?

Come to think of it I have seen them in RVs well below the flood rim.

 

[Reach4]

Why was I thinking the AAV has to be above the flood rim? Was this ever the case? Or are you saying to tee it into the trap arm in a place where it can be extended up to the highest point possible?

Not in US codes. In IPC, AAV needs to be 4 inches above the trap arm or more, as speced by makers.

 

[John Gayewski]

Aav's aren't legal in some codes. Some instances were the ajh determines they can be allowed the ahj can require them above the flood rim. It's better to have a leak point above the flood rim. The manufacturer says they can be as low as 4" above the trap.

Locally our inspector will allow them in some instances but as high as possible.