Use water outside: water Stops - Inside water does not

[Valveman]

On the side of the pressure switch it says Auto, Start, Off , but there is no trip lever. Plus as Don says there is normally two sets of wires going into the pressure switch and they normally do not go in the same hole.

A lot of times they use the cover for the M4 switch on the regular switch. It just doesn't have the little lever.

And it is possible to wire a pressure switch through only one hole.

I am still guessing the pump saver is shutting the pump off on low amperage, or the overload in the motor is shutting it off on high amperage. A clip around amp meter will tell you which is happening.

 

[ZachDowning]

A lot of times they use the cover for the M4 switch on the regular switch. It just doesn't have the little lever.

And it is possible to wire a pressure switch through only one hole.

I am still guessing the pump saver is shutting the pump off on low amperage, or the overload in the motor is shutting it off on high amperage. A clip around amp meter will tell you which is happening.

I appreciate your time and posting this if you have a brief synopsis of what I should tell my electrician as far as where he should test it would be very helpful .

Example should he test in the well itself at the pump or at the breaker box or at the wire pressure switch area. Also should we test while running normal water inside and see what the reading is and then do another reading outside we have the outside faucet opened up ?

Also yes on the wire pressure switch it's just the cover electronic switch above it which is why her to does all the jobs the little lever used to do .

 

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[Valveman]

Just check the amperage at the breaker or pressure switch and see how many amps it pulls when it first starts, watch it run for a while, then check when the water stops. If the amps are high the overload is tripping. If the amps are low, you are pumping the well dry.

 

[DonL]

Also yes on the wire pressure switch it's just the cover electronic switch above it which is why her to does all the jobs the little lever used to do .

Not sure what that means, But it looks like the other controller was wired in place of the pressure switch.

I just see NO wire going the original pressure limit switch. If the switch is wired the picture does not show it.

Is the wire going to it Yellow ?

Valveman's recommendation of using a amp meter to look at the power it is using is the proper way that a electrician can help you.

Many electricians have no clue about water wells, But they should have a clamp on amp probe.

Good Luck.

 

[JustinP]

I have the same problem. I have a 3/4" line coming off of my pump and going to the faucets in my house. But off of that line is a 1" line to my outdoor spigots. Could the increase in line size cause my pump to lose prime? I only lose prime when running my outside hoses. I could run indoor water all day and never have a problem, it's only with outside water. Have you figured anything out with yours?

 

[Reach4]

I have the same problem. I have a 3/4" line coming off of my pump and going to the faucets in my house. But off of that line is a 1" line to my outdoor spigots. Could the increase in line size cause my pump to lose prime? I only lose prime when running my outside hoses. I could run indoor water all day and never have a problem, it's only with outside water. Have you figured anything out with yours?

Where is your pump? If it is a submersible down the well, they don't need priming. Instead, your problem would be the check valve before your pressure switch. Get rid of the innards of that check valve, and things will probably be OK then.

You might be able to work around this by running cold water inside while you are watering outdoors.