Twist and set closet flange & plastering a toilet

[bird is da word]

I am having a new toilet installed. The existing waste line has a lead riser to a brass closet flange. The flared lead riser has detached from the brass flange and split radially in the area that contacts the flange. I am looking at having the riser cut flush with the floor and installing a 3" twist and set flange. The throat opening is only 2" diameter. My questions are as follows.

1. What are peoples experience with these twist and set style flanges? Are they reliable solutions for a long term installation?

2. Should I expect the 2" throat diameter to clog frequently?


The floor elevation will require the toilet to be shimmed. I had mentioned to the handyman doing the install that plastering the toilet may be a better option than shimming. This is to avoid a heavy caulk bead around the toilet. What is the proper method for plastering a toilet? A brief order of the installation sequence is all I really need to know. BTW...what is the overall feeling about this method.

Thanks in advance.
BIDW

 

[Jadnashua]

I don't think you'll get a good seal with the lead riser. It could probably be repaired, but you'd be better off tearing it out and replacing it back to the nearest (probably) cast iron fitting if you have access to it from underneath. I think you'll have problems. If I understand the twist and set fittings (and I may not), it basically wedges itself in the pipe. This might be okay with cast iron, but the lead is soft. Isn't going to be able to compress properly, it will just bend or flare it out.

Many of the newer toilet use a larger trapway than the opening of those, too. It is never good to have a restriction in a line, and an inspector may not allow it.

Grout might be stronger than plaster underneath the edges. Leave those thoughts to a pro, as I don't know. Gypsum based verses cement based - cement based is stronger. Now, do you need it, not sure.

 

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[Gary Swart]

We frequently hear the tales of woe brought about by using "handymen" to do what a professional should be hired to do. In fact, many places do not allow these non licensed (in plumbing) to do plumbing work. You are starting down a path that, if not done right, could end up causing you much misery and cost you twice what a qualified plumber would in the first place. I'm an avid DIYer, but even I know that there are somethings better left to the professionals.

 

[TedL]

How far down does the lead riser extend, and what does it go into? If not too deep, you may have a hub that an extra long flange could slip right into, after removing the lead riser.