Trouble with skirted Toto Vespin and supply line clearance.

[jimpc]

Just got a Toto Vespin II before realizing that the shutoff valve needed to be 5.5" off center. Mine is 5" off center. Toilet is basically a 12.5" rough in, that's where the bolts are from the tiled wall. However I'm not getting the clearance I was expecting from the wall. I;m not even sure I have enough clearance to utilize the Dahl E33-2386-A.

Here are some pictures:

1) Valve clearance off center

2) Rough in length

3) The clearance it looks like I'll have when the toilet is set up.

So what do you guys think? Think the Dahl skirted toilet valve will work? What if I get the unifit 10" rough in adapter to give me 2 more inches?

 

[Plumber69]

You have a few options here. Here's one. 5/8th compression x 1/2 mip 90. And thread this valve on. People will give you more options as this came up before

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Plumber69]

I always rough in 8 inches up off finished floor and 8 inches over from flange center

 

[Plumber69]

You can take the nut and furrel off and sweat a 90 to

 

[Terry]

I carry this Dahl valve on the truck.

If you need more clearance, you can remove the escutcheon and in put the nut a bit into the wall.
Other options are sweating a copper 90 there and a short piece of pipe, Or even a Sharkbite 90 to move it over.

 

[Reach4]

So what do you guys think? Think the Dahl skirted toilet valve will work? What if I get the unifit 10" rough in adapter to give me 2 more inches?

There is some adjustment range in the Unifit slots that the closet bolts go through. I would put in your valve. That right-angle Dahl would be nice. Obviously you will put on a new escutcheon. If you think you want a little more side clearance to the valve, mount the Unifit a little to the right of center. The only complication is that you want the toilet base to cover an remaining rough stuff that is on the tiles. It looks like you could probably scrape some of that off if you needed to.

Maybe you could make marks thru the cover holes, thru the Unifit holes onto the floor while the unit is dry fit. That way you would know where the mounting holes will need to be drilled.

One nice thing about the Unfit, there is no problem adding or adjusting shims before you caulk. The wax will all be under the Unifit. I lubed the rubber where the toilet fits into the unifit with silicone grease. I have it. I use it when I work with a rubber seal. That is not the norm for the unifit, I know.

Do not go to a 10 inch Unifit. Things are not that drastic.

 

[jimpc]

Hey guys thanks for all the help. I got it done. Once again you guys are the best.