Toto Vespin II Install help needed please

[gcs2023]

Got our new toilet (elderly mom is moving in and we need something better for the bathroom that becomes hers downstairs).

I have run into 2 issues

I have "temp installed" the toilet by securing the 12" unifit to the flange with the bolts but I have NOT drilled and mounted it to the floor. I then put the toilet in place so it seats into the connection hole.

1 - Looks like my supply is too close to the toilet (see pic). it is 5.5" from center of drain so I thought I was ok but clearly I am not. What are my best/easiest options to fix this so I can finish the install. Bear in mind I have no plumbing skills other than gluing PVC pipe together. Feeling like I need a plumber.

2 - I unboxed the tank and set it on the bowl to see how it would look (we have a 13" rough in and previous toilet sat almost 3" off the wall and it looked horrible (and made the room super tight - small bathroom). Upon unpacking it I see an half moon cut out on the right back corner that looks intentional and it has glazing on the cut portion. It does not appear to be a broken piece or anything. Once the top is on it this whole still exists - is this correct? Never seen this before and googling does not show anything about this tank looking like this to me.

Last question is just about proper wax ring or a flange adapter etc. My flange sits relatively flush with the tile floor. Its not completely level all the way around. Is one wax ring sufficient for this? Do I need a jumbo one or a second one or just stick with one regular one with the "horn" I think you guys call it (i.e. plastic flared insert piece?

Thanks for any help you guys can give me as I am little lost here

Greg

 

[Reach4]

Is that a steel pipe sticking out of the wall? (steel attracts a magnet). If so, I would unscrew that pipe, and put in a shorter brass nipple. I am not a plumber.

There are some nice Dahl valve solutions that do not stick out much.

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[gcs2023]

I was able to get some supplies from HD and put on a new compression valve by cutting the pipe back close to the wall. Appears I have just enough clearance now.

Issue I am seeing now is that the unifit screw holes are going to line up directly in the grout line on one side. The other is in the center of the tile. Is this an issue?

 

[Reach4]

Issue I am seeing now is that the unifit screw holes are going to line up directly in the grout line on one side. The other is in the center of the tile. Is this an issue?

If you can drill the clearance hole, it is not an issue. The hole below the tile needs to be a pilot hole

 

[gcs2023]

Well I went ahead with the install. Everything is in now and I have filled the tank but not flushed yet.

Unifit was snug to the floor and flush as well. No movement. I did not have to shim the toilet either. No wobbles.

Honestly nervous to do flush as I am always fearful of leaks I cannot see (had this once before requiring the bathroom to be gutted and everything redone due to a leak at the flange we never knew about.

Still concerned if the one wax ring was enough.

 

[Reach4]

The Unifit let you see what the seal would be like. When I did my Vespin II, I used wax from two rings to really fill that Unifit. This is not the normal thing to do, of course.

Wax ring failure is most often due to rocking. With Unifit, that will not happen. Plus the vertical distance the ring must fill is smaller than with a typical toilet.

With Unifit, the caulking is a bit structural. The Unifit only holds the toilet at the wall part. The acrylic caulk, such as Polyseamseal, helps the front of the toilet to resist side forces on the front end.'

 

[gcs2023]

The Unifit let you see what the seal would be like. When I did my Vespin II, I used wax from two rings to really fill that Unifit. This is not the normal thing to do, of course.

Wax ring failure is most often due to rocking. With Unifit, that will not happen. Plus the vertical distance the ring must fill is smaller than with a typical toilet.

With Unifit, the caulking is a bit structural. The Unifit only holds the toilet at the wall part. The acrylic caulk, such as Polyseamseal, helps the front of the toilet to resist side forces on the front end.'

Yeah definitely will do polyseamseal but have to order it as neither HD or Lowes has any around me. That's assuming I can find it anywhere which so far I cannot (only white)

 

[Reach4]

Loctite Polyseamseal Clear Acrylic Latex Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk 5.5 oz - Ace Hardware

Loctite Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk is a premium, water-based caulk that's specifically designed for sealing projects in your kitchen and bathroom. Seal & Bond technology gives it the long-lasting bonding properties of an adhesive with the sealing strength of a caulk, making...

www.acehardware.com

It will allow you to pull the toilet in the future, without having to take a hammer to it or lifting floor tiles. See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/caulk-toilet-to-floor.860/page-2#post-576135

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwi...onized-Kitchen-and-Bath-Caulk-18902/206046688 is probably good too. It is acrylic with some silicone.