Oh sorry - I didn't see this long discussion before posting...
At first I thought the white ring was the inside of the plastic pipe, with the pipe being coated with something to make it appear dark on the outside and the cut-profile exposing the inner light plastic which is the pipe's thickness.
However, I now believe the white is a part of the bottom of the flange, made from plastic. I think it set on top of the pipe (because there's a very slight overhang there with it being slightly smaller than the underlying pipe) and a raised circular dark ring is set back from that, with the metal flange beyond that still.
I really can't quite make it all out but maybe one of these pictures will help.
I'm not sure how much the wax needs for "gripping". The flange is rusted to dust in 180-degrees of its circumference or so and it appears that there's some still left for the rest of the circle. At least there is redness there and it seems as if the original flange was red.
When it comes to routing out concrete I'm out-of-my-league. But dh does have the needed drill bit and evidently prefers the lead sets. To my horror he proudly plopped a massive box of them on the kitchen counter. The hardware store sold me those blue screws, but as he's going to be doing that job it's his call for the preference. I just don't want the lead on the kitchen counter thankyouverymuch.
The repair flange I got at the hardware store is designed to fit above the rusted original flange and be secured by four screws in its corners. However the problem for me is there is tile in the way of those four corner-screws. DH doesn't want to start chipping back tile; prefers to go straight through the old flange or what's left of it.
My concern is whether the pushtite device will have a flange that's so large it would also require chipping back tile. At first I couldn't find specs that stated the diameter of the repair-flange, but I figured that out; I need 1 5/8" and it might be close in spots.
But I do like the looks of the pushtite device because it closes what will have to be a fairly considerable gap between the repair flange and the pipe. Because the now-rusted flange was set right into concrete, seemingly, there's a half-inch height difference I believe from where a repair flange could set and the start of the pipe. Because the pushtite fits inside the pipe, this contraption may be a good solution.
Considering that there is obviously dampness present I'm thinking the plastic flange might be better than the ss? But if someone thinks otherwise I'm grateful for their expertise.
Thanks all....