Toilet Flange / Closet Flange sheared off - fix with Oatey part# 43538 or 43539 & question

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PlumblocoBrett

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I've been in this home for a year. I have no history on the plumbing work. Drain waste is cast iron. After removing this toilet that started to rotate, I discovered the flange had sheared off. It seems the cast iron riser to the toilet was replaced, but I can't figure out material it is. It has a dent in it that may prevent my Oatey solution from working as the diameter is reduced as a result of the dent. The flange seems like copper, and I can't figure out what material of the replacement riser is. It is not magnetic, so it's not cast iron. The old flange seems to be copper that was welded onto the riser. Could the riser be lead? Can I push or bang out that dent without creating a crack?

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Reach4

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Material is lead, and can be soldered by somebody who knows how.
 

Jadnashua

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You're not going to get a reliable seal if you try to use an internal fit flange...the lead is just going to expand when you set the new flange, and the seal won't be good - plus, the lead easily won't be round, so getting it in there in the first place can be tough. There are two ways to fix this:
- solder the old flange back onto the lead. If it had been screwed to the subflooring, it may not have been twisted loose in the first place
- remove all of the lead down into the hub of the cast iron below, then use a rubber donut, push a piece of pvc into it long enough to get up to where you need it, then glue on a new flange (pick one with a stainless steel ring, not all plastic, or one with a painted steel).

The second option doesn't require any special tools, but removing the lead will take some cutting, maybe drilling, and prying. Once that's cleaned up, the rubber donut is pressed in place, the new pipe pushed into that, and the rest is just the cement and screws.
 

PlumblocoBrett

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You're not going to get a reliable seal if you try to use an internal fit flange...the lead is just going to expand when you set the new flange, and the seal won't be good - plus, the lead easily won't be round, so getting it in there in the first place can be tough. There are two ways to fix this:
- solder the old flange back onto the lead. If it had been screwed to the subflooring, it may not have been twisted loose in the first place
- remove all of the lead down into the hub of the cast iron below, then use a rubber donut, push a piece of pvc into it long enough to get up to where you need it, then glue on a new flange (pick one with a stainless steel ring, not all plastic, or one with a painted steel).

The second option doesn't require any special tools, but removing the lead will take some cutting, maybe drilling, and prying. Once that's cleaned up, the rubber donut is pressed in place, the new pipe pushed into that, and the rest is just the cement and screws.

Hi Jadnashua, thank you for your advice. I was able to solder it back myself. I purchased the "Alpha Fry Lead-Free plumbers kit with Silver-Brearing Alloy , flux, and a brush from Ace Hardware." I also got some MAP fuel for my MAP torch. I gently tapped the lip of the lead waste pipe to allow the flange to fit over it and rest on the floor. The previous ding dong had no screws in the flange at all, as you suspected. I managed to get all three new stainless steel screws to but into the sub floor. Some had to angled just right. before banging the lead waste pipe over the inner diameter of the flange, I applied flux and then spooled out silver solder 360 degrees around and then gently banged the lead pipe over it. I applied heat with the MAP torch and applied more of the same solder as needed. Easier than I thought! It looks a little "beady" but it's the best it's ever been. Toilet flushes much better, toilet holds still and no more occasional gaseous odors!
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