Tiling over bath tub flange

[RCraig]

Ok, sorry, I think I used inaccurate terminology in several places. The first issue is movement, which I am now thinking might occur in the up-and-down dimension (y-axis, sorry) and also in the front-to-back dimension (z-axis). I am trying to minimize any movement at the tile wall to tub interface, to stave off future problems.

For the same reason, I am trying to understand how to keep water from going in undesired places when it comes onto the above interface. Something that will last. My present understanding is that one can either put silicon/topical waterproofing, or bring the vapor barrier from behind the board up over the flange.

A second issue, which I probably should not confuse things with now, is that the studs at the front of my tub are, in my amateur's opinion, amaturish (which I took literary license and described as gerrymandered). I am now getting paranoid about these studs, because even if I get the interface done well, I don't want improper starting carpentry to undermine all my efforts.

Have pics of flange and will try to upload them.
Ruth

 

[RCraig]

front of tub

There is no board at the front. This wall had to be moved.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RCraig]

Back of tub - cement board cut to remove old shifty tub.

I think when new board is put up, it will come out in front of flange ever so slightly, actually maybe a quarter inch. Unless shimmed or something.

 

[ShowerDude]

Perhaps im missing something! More pictures plz and explain ..... Are you attempting to salvage the old tile? Your flange is meant to be lapped w/ CBU, but thats not the bigger issue...... If a salvage job, your existing tile is going to dictate how you approach the job at hand. You have a pickle goin on there. You really need to consider a gut and start fresh , correct your framing issues, shim or fur out your studs . Read the posts on getting your walls plumb.....

 

[ShowerDude]

If salvaging is must i would consider cutting another row of tile out around the perimiter . You want a "larger or taller "tile at tub deck to span this type repair....

 

[Jadnashua]

You really need at least 1/2 of a tile to be fully supported and embedded into thinset and the cbu board (the more the better) with the remainder overlapping the tub's tiling flange (leave at least 1/8" gap to the horizontal with both the tile and cbu to the tub).

 

[RCraig]

Sorry, I didn't explain well. What I am thinking is to take down the tile and board that remains. So in other words, new cement boards and retile all 3 sides. I just want to make sure it is done right this time.
One concern I have is whether the new cement boards should come down to about the top of the flange, or whether, alternatively, they should be shimmed so that they stick out enough to overlap over the flange. I realize now that there is not a perfect single answer to this question.
My main concern is to avoid the potential of future leaks, such as at the tub/tile wall interface especially at the front of the tub.
Thanks, Ruth

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Ruth - What's your budget?

You can do it the right way (follow industry specifications) or do it My Way (so out to left field it's crazy) or somewhere in between. Depends on what your budget is, who is building it.

Always start from the beginning.

Tile Layout and Lighting Plan.

Do you have this done?

 

[RCraig]

Well, I guess I don't - the only thing that needs to be done is the three walls that surround the tub (old tub had to be removed to replace floor, since leaking had rotted floor).

So, just small tiles, really nothing fancy. As far as lighting, the room already has lighting, so don't need to improve that, it is fine.

As far a budget - my main aim is to have something that doesn't leak. The way I figure it, a cheap job that leaks and causes expense and headache in the future is not a bargain. One of the reasons I am so interested in all of your thoughts is that, that way, the contractor will be less able to do something that saves him money now, but costs me money in the end.

Ruth