Symmons Shower Diverter too much water from tub spout

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Jeehole

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Hi all,

I just did an overhaul on my shower. Replaced shower head and pipe, symmons spindle and hot/cold seat, new symmons elve trim kit, tub spout, trip lever, and grate.

After replacement, I noticed the diverter was real notchy. I figure some of the PB Blaster I used to free the seats may have dripped in and degraded the diverter. The diverter was probably the original one from when the house was built in 1998. Note: it was working however. There was only a tiny stream coming out of tub spout when shower was engaged, which is normal for this older symmons valve.

A few days later I replaced the diverter. I had a hard time getting it out, used a 5/16" bolt to extract it, but worked it slow and steady and was careful not to damage the brass. Then used a 1/2" brush for copper pipe to clean the body. I used a dab of plumbers grease on the new diverter.

Everything went back together well, but since then the amount of water coming out the tub spout has tripled. Its a stream about 1/2" wide. I contacted Symmons support and they said up to a pencil width was normal, they suggested take it all apart again and briefly turn on the water supply without the spindle installed to flush any debris out. Haven't tried that yet, but a little dubious that will help.

Has anyone seen this before? any tips? I'm concerned that maybe the valve body is worn out and letting too much water pass by the shoulders on the plastic diverter.

Thanks!
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Is it a tub spout diverter or a diverter on the the valve that diverts water to the shower?

tub spout diverters are notoriously dodgy.
 

Jeehole

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It's a symmons temptrol tub/shower valve
this is a link to the replacement diverter part # TA-25A


symmons-ta-25a-diverter.jpg


symmonsvalve.jpg
 
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Vtxrider

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I've got the same problem and same scenario with the rebuild. Did the same with the brush and flushing. Tried different tub/ shower diverters. Still the same. 40+ year old valve. I'm thinking the valve is worn. Other problems that exhausted remedies. I've got well water.
 

Jeehole

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I've got the same problem and same scenario with the rebuild. Did the same with the brush and flushing. Tried different tub/ shower diverters. Still the same. 40+ year old valve. I'm thinking the valve is worn. Other problems that exhausted remedies. I've got well water.
Thanks for replying. I was thinking of trying a different diverter valve in case it was defective. But seems unlikely. I talked to my plumber about it yesterday, he thinks I should not have cleaned it out with the brush...

guess I have to live with it until I can replace the whole valve.

thanks
 

Terry

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Reposted by Redwood

The Symmons Temptrol usually rebuilds quite nicely as long as the water isn't to hard however the parts do add up.

I usually install new T-4 hot and cold seats, a new TA-10 Spindle, and the TA-25 A or, B volume/diverter spindle with good results.

By the time you add up all the individual parts your better off just hitting big box and buying the whole valve for about $90 and swapping out the parts. It also gives you the option of having the valve on hand to replace it if the T-3 seat strips out.

The valve should be open before attempting to remove the T-11 cap or reinstalling it.

Raven Products makes a great tool for the Temptrol which I prefer over the T-35 seat tools. You will need one or, the other...

I've done better write ups here in the past use the forum search to find them.

here's a pic of the Raven Products Tool

raven4inonesymmonstool.jpg
 

Jeehole

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Reposted by Redwood

The Symmons Temptrol usually rebuilds quite nicely as long as the water isn't to hard however the parts do add up.

I usually install new T-4 hot and cold seats, a new TA-10 Spindle, and the TA-25 A or, B volume/diverter spindle with good results.

By the time you add up all the individual parts your better off just hitting big box and buying the whole valve for about $90 and swapping out the parts. It also gives you the option of having the valve on hand to replace it if the T-3 seat strips out.

The valve should be open before attempting to remove the T-11 cap or reinstalling it.

Raven Products makes a great tool for the Temptrol which I prefer over the T-35 seat tools. You will need one or, the other...

I've done better write ups here in the past use the forum search to find them.

here's a pic of the Raven Products Tool

raven4inonesymmonstool.jpg

Thanks Terry, good tips. I have replaced parts in Symmons valves a few times with good results.

One question - do you recommend cleaning out the diverter body with a wire brush when replacing? I used a 1/2" copper tube brush. My plumber thinks this contributed to the new valve not seating as well.
 
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