Sump Pump replacement

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RMO194

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Greetings!

You guys were so helpful about a year ago when I was re-plumbing a bathroom sink under a new vanity.

Now I am trying my hand at a sump pump replacement. The old one died after about 7 years.

After some research, I am going with a Zoeller M63. I considered Liberty Pumps, as well. Good choice?

I will post some pictures later of my current setup. I'm guessing it will be smart to replace the check valve, as well? Are the $15-20 check valves at Lowes good options (Zoeller #1030-0181 or Star Water Systems #148102 / #148101)?

I know I need a 1-1/2" NPT discharge adapter and some Oatey PVC primer and cement. Have a hacksaw, as well!

Thank you!
Ryan
 

Reach4

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I like that it is 3/10 HP.

Do you know about the 3/16 diameter hole?
 

Reach4

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Yes. The purpose is to let air out if somehow the air gets in, and the impeller is not slinging water.
 

Reach4

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No pix. If the joints are dry when you glue them, no need for a special cement.
 

RMO194

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Should I cut just below that first elbow?

Also, please see my check valve question above. Thanks a bunch!
 

Reach4

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Pix links are there now. Your existing pipe is ABS, so you don't use PVC glue to connect to that. You can go all ABS, or maybe use transition cement. Transition cement may be a problem with some codes.


Usually the check valve is higher than what you have. That 3/16 hole goes under the check valve.
 

RMO194

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Update: The new sump pump has arrived, and I thought I had everything set up. Threw some water in the sump...but unfortunately, I have leaking! It appears to be coming from the connection at the top of the check valve.

I did not use any pipe cement on the check valve connections; I simply tightened the two metal clamps (two above and two below). Is that correct? Photos below.
 

Reach4

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The pipe that you are clamping to is 1-1/4 inch. I suggest that you adjust one of your worm gear clamps to put the worm on the opposite side of the other.
Z-Bzswfo5oy.JPG

The clamps look cocked. You can remove one of the clamps, and put it back on the other way. That way you could still have the screw slots and hex heads pointing in the direction where you turn from the point of view of the camera.
 
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RMO194

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Two questions:

1) Putting a clamp 'on the opposite side of the other,' are you saying to make it look like the picture that you attached? One clamp on the very end of the black rubber, and one clamp nearest to the green body?

2) By cocked, do you mean how I have the tightening screws to the left of the pipe above the green body, and the two screws below the body on the right of the pipe?
 

Reach4

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I suggest it look more like this... with one worm gear to the left, and one to the right.
1675967363632.png
 

John Gayewski

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I've been called to this situation before and the main problem was the pipe didn't have enough support. Since you don't have an "all glued" assembly anymore those fernco connections are going to continually come loose as the pump vibrates. You should either switch to all glued connections or find a good way to hold the piping in place and hope the pump sits still enough after you've clamped the pipe.

I also think those check valves are recommended to be in the horizontal.
 

Reach4

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So the two worms side-by-side, and not with one near the opening? Or maybe a THIRD worm could help??
I was suggesting something like the image I mocked up in post #13.

What is this "side by side" in your interpretation?

What are you picturing for a third clamp?

You understand that the worm gear is the thing that gets rotated when you turn the hex or slot? This describes what a worm gear is: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1080/worm-gears
 
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RMO194

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I was suggesting something like the image I mocked up in post #13.

What is this "side by side" in your interpretation?

What are you picturing for a third clamp?

You understand that the worm gear is the thing that gets rotated when you turn the hex or slot? This describes what a worm gear is: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1080/worm-gears
By 'side-by-side,' I mean two worms touching each other (like I have currently). A third would go at the very top (as seen in post #11).
 

Reach4

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By 'side-by-side,' I mean two worms touching each other (like I have currently). A third would go at the very top (as seen in post #11).
Side by side for the worm gears was what I was suggesting you move away from. That upper position, as shown in #11 would only do any good if there was 1-1/2 inch pipe.
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Technically ABS isn't rated for pressure. We can only use PVC for that.. However... its there and I've installed ABS many times before getting called out on it.

I think the leak is being caused by the hose clamps not being installed in the correct location. The Inner clamps are holding the reducer to the check valve.. The outer clamps are supposed to be holding the reducer coupling to the pipe.. They need to be further away from the check valve or closer to the ends of the coupling.

1675983578978.png
 

RMO194

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Technically ABS isn't rated for pressure. We can only use PVC for that.. However... its there and I've installed ABS many times before getting called out on it.

I think the leak is being caused by the hose clamps not being installed in the correct location. The Inner clamps are holding the reducer to the check valve.. The outer clamps are supposed to be holding the reducer coupling to the pipe.. They need to be further away from the check valve or closer to the ends of the coupling.

View attachment 90713

In other words, just like the picture in post #11, right?
 
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