Shut off valve recommendations

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JimLS

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Have a house the we had built and had a plumber do the plumbing. We have plumbing (bathrooms/kitchen/laundry/etc) grouped at each end of the house. We have shutoffs for the sinks, toilets, etc but not for the showers/tubs - this seems pretty standard. If I have an issue with a shower valve (which I actually have now - fortunately it isn't leaking, just not working right) I have to shut off the water for the whole house to repair it. Seems like a cold shutoff in the line to each end of the house would allow me to have operational water in the other end of the house and a big plus. I have a water heater on each side of the house so the hot water can be shut off for each side but not the cold water. Thinking about adding a couple valves in the cold water when I tackle the shower valve repair.

Just wondering if this type of valve arrangement is done very often. I realize it adds a bit of cost but not having shut off valves for the showers/tubs while having them for all the other fixtures seems odd.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Its our company policy to only provide and install shower valves with integral isolation valves.

Here is an example of a Kohler pressure balance valve with the stops removed.

k-8304-03.jpg


Adding them after the fact in an accessible panel is a good idea in my opinion. I would add them to the hot and cold side if you're bothering to do them at all. Depending on the type of pipe, a ball valve is the best way to go.
 

JimLS

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I have access to the pipes in unfinished parts of the basement so access to the added valves is not an issue.

The integrated stops is an interesting thing. In talking to the valve manufacturer they said something about stops so I may have those in my valve. I need to remove the cover plate to take a picture and identify the valve model (already know, or at least am pretty sure, of the brand). Thanks for that info. But I have a tub right next to the shower and know it doesn't have stops so the added valve would still be a plus.

The hot can be shut off at the water heater and I have two sections of piping each with a heater (2 heaters total) so I think only adding a shutoff for each section in the cold line would be best. That way I can still use the other half of the house plumbing if I have to shut off one section for an extended time - say if I have a leak and need some time to get parts.

What do you normally do for tub faucets that are on the rim of the tub?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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The hot can be shut off at the water heater and I have two sections of piping each with a heater (2 heaters total) so I think only adding a shutoff for each section in the cold line would be best.

I definitely do not agree that it would be Best to only isolate the cold side and leave half the house hot unusable while servicing the shower. The downside to adding the second shutoff is the cost of the valve and time it takes to install it while you're doing the cold valve.

What do you normally do for tub faucets that are on the rim of the tub?

Do you mean a deck mounted tub with a Roman tub filler? Those would have valves in a concealed location with an access.

Or like what we do for refrigerators water in kitchens where we install a valve in a nearby cabinet that controls the water for the remote fixture. I've had to do that for toilets that don't have accessible space for a water connection too.
 

JimLS

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yes, deck mounted faucet on roman tub. No shutoffs except tub valves. Have a mop sink in the basement with no shutoffs also. House was plumbed by a plumber not me. Sounds like you always put in shutoffs. Hoping others might post... Still seems like putting in a valve to shut off half the house is a reasonable compromise.
 

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Still seems like putting in a valve to shut off half the house is a reasonable compromise.

Oh. I thought you were adding the shutoff to the cold for the shower only. I misread that. Your compromise in that way would be reasonable.
 
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