Setting a Shower's Flood Test

[JohnfrWhipple]

The single most important step in a shower renovation is the flood test. Only after this test is done do you have the piece of mind and knowledge of how well your shower was built.

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Above is a variation on my tipped coin technique. With a 1" scratch in this 12"x12" Slate Tile I tipped the slate so the water lined up exactly on the mark. The two tile in the shower on the floor help hold the tile still and keep it from sliding.

The process is simple and can be done one of many different ways. I think any technique that breaks the surface tension on the water is the way to go.

Lets look at all the possibilities and make sure you set your test right.

Above you see a simple 1.5" inflatable test plug. These work with an extension hose and bike pump. You can also use a plug that looks like this.

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The yellow thing is an extension hose for the inflatable test plugs. Lying on it is a 2" inflatable test plug. At the top left a blue and orange twist and set plug.

All work. Getting the right plug is the key first step.

Many showers have different installation set ups. Regardless of the shower type or drain type testing the waterproof connection is so key.

This week I will be flood testing a solid stone shower base. This is very much like any fiberglass shower base and these showers like custom showers should be checked.

The discussion and materials needed to complete a successful flood test are continued here.


Different Types of Shower Test Plugs

Below a closer look at 2" inflatable and 1.5" test plugs. Both Inflatable and twist and set shown

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

1.5" Twist and set Test Plugs

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

2" Twist and Set Plug

 

[ShowerDude]

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

A brand new 2" Inflatable shown above with a 3' extension hose. I don't recognize the valve end on the hose. What type of pump do you use to inflate that up Counter?

 

[ShowerDude]

A brand new 2" Inflatable shown above with a 3' extension hose. I don't recognize the valve end on the hose. What type of pump do you use to inflate that up Counter?

The valve end is a deflation tip/cap!!! I use my compressor @40psi. Then i use a gauge to verify..... I have 2 bike pumps neither will inflate this??? This is the only plug i can get down the quick drains ... Ill be flooding. Proline this week....

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

It's a good plug for that drain. Works for the side outlet as well.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Flood Test - August 2014
Masset, B.C.
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Marking Method: Tipped Tile with scratch
Pass/Fail: Pass
Waterproofing System: NobleSeal CIS - Ardex 8+9 hybrid

After a flood test the water should drain and the weep holes should be working well. Check this. Proper slope for a shower's waterproofing is 1/4" per foot.​

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Typically if you saw this after a shower flood test your heart would stop. But this was not from the shower's flood test but rather from a missing connection from the master bedrooms exterior deck and the waste line. Water can do so much damage to a home. This is why a flood test is so badly needed.

I rigged up a water diverter out of some metal flashing to reroute the water outside the bedroom window. I'm glad it's not my bad and that I could help out in the mean time.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Questions on Flood Test: - Water test success?

"I've just completed a 8-hour water test of my 4' x 5' shower and found no leaks (hurray!). Liner used is two pieces of Oatey shower pan liner that was seamed with the appropriate PVC/liner x-15 adhesive. Seams were cured for over 24 hours before water test.

The caulk I used under the liner at the drain was DAP Alex Fast Dry acrylic latex + silicone. A little bit of caulk squished out of the bolt holes when I set the drain flange on top but weep holes were not compromised. Caulk was cured for 72 hours before water test.

When I completed the water test and drained everything, I noted that the caulk at the one bolt hole appeared "wet" and slurry-like and the same slurry-like caulk had smushed into three of the weep holes. That said, I did not have any failures at the drain site (I have access to beneath the drain from a closet on the first floor). So I'm wondering... am I safe? Do I need to take the drain flange off, scrape off the caulk and redo it with 100% silicone (is that even possible?)? Am I ok as is or did I use the completely wrong product to caulk with and water will eventually make that point a failure?...."

- Weenie from Dallastown, PA

This is a past shower flood test but a failed approach. The chalk used will break down over time and then fail. Much better to make that connection from the shower liner to the drain with something like NobleSealant 150.


Above you can see my use of NobleSealant 150 under the liner and above the base portion of the clamping drain. I like to use plastic as a bond breaker as well. Read my blog post for more info. You only get one chance to make this connection perfect.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, at least in the USA, the all rubber connector with the hose clamps is not allowed above ground, and would not pass code in the USA as used in one of John's drain connection. Canada may allow it, but the banded coupling is required in the USA for good reasons when above ground.

 

[ShowerDude]

Mission band is the term....No hub not allowed in MN.. they .....look the damn same but they are not.

pretty sure johns flood tests are inspected as is the plumbing, so just to clarify here for people reading and myself really.........you are trying to point out what exaclty ?

 

[Jadnashua]

you are trying to point out what exaclty ?

While what is shown might be legal in Canada (I do not know), it is not in the USA, and a lot of people on here are from the USA. So, to keep a USA reader from running into problems, used a banded connector when it is above ground in the USA.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Test Plug Epic Fail

Check out this Epic Fail of test plug advice: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=1382029&postcount=10

How do you set a test plug and then listen to water dripping through weep holes. What a train wreck of advice.

The test plug shown fits inside the 2" drain line. It test the connection of the drain to the 2' line and the connection of the waterproofing to the drain. It does not sit above this point and does not test for working weep holes.

you have to laugh sometimes. And people will read this and try it. that is the sad part.

With so many experts on the other forum it's shocking that no one speaks up. Had I not quit writing over there I would have lamb basted him! lol

 

[ShowerDude]

The time to flood test a shower is BEFORE it gets tiled if its a thinbed.

if its a traditional pan approach you test before drypack & after pan liner.

filling up a tiled mud pan not advisable IMHO yet home inspectors do it all the time.

i dont follow all the corporate sponsored advice on that ofher forum....John.

sure theres some great tilers there .... did i just see a home depot associate giving tile advice???! now they have home depot sponsors! ??? LOL

 

[ShowerDude]

Flood test passed!

Minneapolis MN > 48 hours> Noble TS> quick drain > ON site drain flange connection w/kerdi fix.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Such a pretty colour. I love that you share all your flood test pictures Erik. Keep up the good work.

 

[ShowerDude]

thx for the assist on this flange connection John.

My clients waited patiently for this flood test......