Purchase Advice Tankless or Tank

Users who are viewing this thread

Bnick

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
06484
Hey All,

I am a new homeowner and the current water heater that I have is out of warranty and has a gas leak issue 50GAL A.O. Smith. I live in CT and have a 3500 sqft home with 4.5 baths (master has a jacuzzi tub and a 6 head shower), dishwasher, washing machine. The question I am looking for your professional advice on is should I change the tank water heater to another tank but larger or do I go tankless where I would probably need two to keep the flow rates consistent in the winter?

I will try to answer any technical questions as best as I can.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Bnick
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
I would go with a 75 gallon gas water heater and perhaps a tempering valve. It's difficult to fill large tubs or run multiple showers with tankless.
 

Dana

In the trades
Messages
7,889
Reaction score
509
Points
113
Location
01609
A six head shower would bring any tankless to it's knees, and could drain even 75 gallon standalone pretty fast too. (Even at 1 gpm x 6 heads it'll deplete a 75 gallon tank in under 12 minutes.) Boosting storage temp to 150-160F and tempering it down will helpe, but not enough.

If (like many homes in CT) you're doing your space heating with a boiler you may get better service out of an indirect fired water heater running as a "priority zone" on the boiler. Sizing the tank for the largest tub you need to fill is appropriate, but recovery rates matter too. A boiler heating a 3500' house in CT would usually have twice the BTU output/ half the recovery time of a standalone. In the past CT has offered rebate subsidy for installing an indirect water heater- not sure it that's true this year.

If the deluxe shower gets used more than five minutes per day it may be worth investing in a drainwater heat exchanger, which can roughly double the "apparent capacity" of your water heater for showering, but not for tub-filling.

power-pipe-dana.jpg

DSC_6441.preview.JPG


It doesn't have to be located next to the water heater (though that makes it easier to plumb), but it DOES have to be downstream of the shower drain, and vertical. A 4" x 48" or larger would return about half or more of the heat going down the drain into the incoming water stream, cutting your BTU rate in half. The longest and fattest that fits has the quickest payback, since the marginal cost of the unit isn't huge compared to the fully installed price- the labor is about the same for a 3" x 30" heat exchanger as it is for a 4" x 96" that returns a LOT more heat.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Bnick

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
06484
Hey Dana,

Not sure I fully understand that setup but the 50Gal didn't have much issue unless multiple showers were going for longer than 15 mins so a 75 that Terry recommended seems to e a good fit in my novice judgement.

The last question I have for you guys is the plumber I am working with is recommending a free air High-Efficiency 75Gal Rheem vs a Combustion air model, do you guys have a preference? The PVC for intake and Out is already set up from the current water heater.

Thanks again.

Bnick
 

Dana

In the trades
Messages
7,889
Reaction score
509
Points
113
Location
01609
Hey Dana,

Not sure I fully understand that setup but the 50Gal didn't have much issue unless multiple showers were going for longer than 15 mins so a 75 that Terry recommended seems to e a good fit in my novice judgement.

The last question I have for you guys is the plumber I am working with is recommending a free air High-Efficiency 75Gal Rheem vs a Combustion air model, do you guys have a preference? The PVC for intake and Out is already set up from the current water heater.

Thanks again.

Bnick

A modulating condensing all-stainless HTP Phoenix PH100-80 (100KBTU/hr burner, 80 gallons) can sustain a continuous 24/7 full-flow shower with margin, and will outlast any glass-lined 75 gallon water heater by at least 2x in a residential application.

If the 50 gallon was almost cutting it and big enough to fill the tubs, the Phoenix PH100-55 (100KBTU/hr x 55 gallons) would be a better choice. It's the same burner to support but with only 55 gallons of buffering capacity. Even though it's nore than twice as expensive as a glass lined 75 gallon water heater, it's "worth it"- you'd only pay for the installation once every 25+ years instead of every decade .

The Phoenix Light Duty PH76-50 (only light duty in terms of commercial water heater burner size) has a 76K burner. The Westinghouse branded version of the 50 gallon version runs about 2 grand at Home Depot, but your plumber might be able to beat that price on the HTP labeled version buying direct from HTP (they're located in MA.) It's twice the burner output of a typical 50 gallon standalone, all stainless just like it's bigger-burner siblings. If your old water heater almost cuts it, the 76K burner can squeak out a single shower forever, but not with as much margin for other simultaneous uses as a 100K burner.

Or, you can save that money and go with a standard 50-55 gallon standalone, and apply the savings toward a drainwater heat recovery heat exchanger.

A drainwater heat exchanger takes heat out of the water flowing down the drain and puts it into the incoming water stream. That incoming water stream is feeding both the water heater AND the cold side of the shower mixer with much warmer water than what's coming in at the street, so it takes slower sip of hot water from the 120F+ tank to deliver 105F water at the shower head, and the water heater has to put less heat in to keep up. With a 4" x 48" or larger heat exchanger a standard 50 gallon tank with a standard 36-40KBTU/hr burner can support an almost continuous 2gpm shower most seasons at CT incoming water temperatures. From a showering perspective it's like doubling the size of the burner, but a burner that burns no fuel.

There is some pressure drop from the flow through the heat exchanger, and they're not all equal. For almost a decade Renewability's Power Pipe series (available in the US, but you can also buy direct from the manufacturer), but more recently EcoDrain's V1000 series completely at their lunch on both recovery efficiency and low pressure drop at high flow. A 4" x 48" V1000 returns 57% of the heat back to the incoming water stream at a standard 2.5 gpm flow rate (part of the Canadian standard test conditions) a bit more at lower flow, a bit less at higher flow. (The 4" x 72" returns fully 2/3 of the heat back, well worth it if it fits.) By comparison a 4" x 48" PowerPipe returns 49.8% which is still pretty good compared to the other competitors in this market. (I have about 10 years of service on a 4" x 48" PowerPipe in my house in MA and am totally satisfied with it's performance). As they grow taller the performance difference between those series becomes more pronounced.

But it'll increase the "apparent capacity" of the tank in showering mode by more than 1.5x (more than 2x with a 4" x 72" V1000), but does nothing for tub filling capacity, since the drain isn't flowing when the tub is being filled. But if a 50 gallon tank fills your tubs, this would be a better overall investment than a bigger tank with a bigger burner.

For a 4" x 48" or 4" x 60" expect to pay about a grand for the unit. If you have room for a taller one the marginal upcharge is worth it- the tallest that fits is the "right" one. If it saves you a grand on water heater by letting you stick with a 50 gallon tank it's pretty much paying for itself up front, but in families that primarily shower it'll also pay for itself (installation included) in under a decade at CT's higher than national average retail natural gas rates.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Master Plumber Mark

Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
Messages
5,538
Reaction score
357
Points
83
Location
indianapolis indiana - land of the free, home of
Website
www.weilhammerplumbing.com
Dana, do those copper heat collectors actually work>>>?? It makes me wonder how long it will take to acutally
re-coup the money spent for the part and installation... Has anyone ever actually figured this out yet...?

why dont you get out your fancy calculater ---plug in the delta phi and break them numbers down for me ? Like 20 years before you have the break even point??

as far as water heaters go I got one here that probably could take on a 6 headed shower unit...

65,000 btu direct vented 50 gallon for heating and hot water..... do you think it would keep up??.....


X0Kp-8mLm9r53JLg4ktgIw5zbeD5ZVPeMxlQzCdaA0845la0EhodEIP3o8j8-NJp6Na4jzhdXwUhmWyXqXF12_wdgsie-twOdrYSNXveHH2qOqVmag7bEZ9YPdJPJWrB9YYd39YySPlF030PQ4M0M04OWSQx7LHzsK3vTupPY3GE5K9cakOTeunigD8ejF0E-TQkYQmUkxyLxySveW5KZj_0uF0bgLQ5xdMvH7OiFKhFGkHeWczMRlgNdQrkEW1bjWPz5fHDiXrqEXGTHcHhGOvJRiChZtpkEMdE50EOCChxc_lhegMc1EOIRMy1Zx3qaszQUIisWX8rRNGzsvrgIBzfYWDX3xpPmatFxtLqEXoco3ARN8B_pRwKU-_x7iSphZJkJ7vh-wANLIQC0OryI_wqfjvc4Oz9gNtbERZtlPn_duLK1R10XlC5fp4FS4VXlBdnSPbldHsbgzrf6z0cqD5-X4UVKtk254eGERGtGdgqfyq5gcnkJ6VfvQ2UiXOJT7OWaX2IIGehX_Q0DB4fC3YLqyGsUso1riuUoOY0RXVMYnJTvDQIBsYTY79P7C6EDBzS09k40bKxlWKH_RHcI2wNuGREaAbMyiq2w3j1o8HODEdUt_46eSe_vsL8Ma-t=s833-no







 

Dana

In the trades
Messages
7,889
Reaction score
509
Points
113
Location
01609
Many people have run those numbers- this stuff has been around for over 30 years.

Yes, they definitely work, with sub-decade payback for showering families (even in low utility cost locations), as confirmed by multiple independent studies in the US and Canada and elsewhere.

In high energy cost states like Connecticut (gas costs about 2x what it does there than in the midwest, electricity more than 1.5x) it's a no brainer if you're using a 6-spray shower daily, independently of the size & type of water heater.

At CT's ~40F wintertime incoming water temperatures a 2gpm (that's low-flow) 105F shower is drawing heat at ~65,000 BTU/hr. (It's not hard math 2 gpm x 8.34lbs per gallon x 60 minutes per hour x 65F temperature rise= 65,052/hr). An 80% combustion efficiency 65K burner is only delivering 52,000 BTU/hr to the water. So no, a "...65,000 btu direct vented 50 gallon..." will definitely NOT "...keep up..." even with a standard low-flow shower forever, let alone a 6 head shower.

La aritmetica non e opinione. For a 6 head shower fuggedaboudit. A burner that's only ~1.5x bigger than a standard burner barely moves the needle on showering time for gusher-showers- it's all about the stored volume.

But with drainwater heat recovery at 50% heat recovery even a standard burner 50 gallon unit keeps up with the 2gpm shower, and offers significant "apparent capacity" for high flow.

OK, so let's bump up the flow. At 6 gpm it's drawing three times as much heat, or 195,000 BTU/hr down the drain. At 50% heat recovery it's returning 97,000 BTU/hr back to the incoming water, which is nearly twice as much as the 65K/80% burner is putting in, and about 3x as much as a standard burner would be delivering, and about 5x as much as the heat rate difference between a 40K burner and a 65K burner.
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks