Pump runs continously but doesn't build enough pressure to reach cut-off

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Reach4

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Could be the o-ring on the pitless adapter blew out.

It would be nice if you could have a new o-ring standing by, but you don't know what pitless you have.

Valveman has posted that he can often find a matching o-ring for a pitless using a kit that has a bunch of o-rings.

https://www.zoro.com/o-ring-assortments/c/7463/ is Zoro's offerings.

Your local big amazing hardware store may have one that works.

I would coat my new pitless lightly o-ring with Molykote 111, because I have it. But if you are also going to use this on moving seals, you can get Dow No. 7 release compound and use it for both static and dynamic seals.
 

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Could be the o-ring on the pitless adapter blew out.

It would be nice if you could have a new o-ring standing by, but you don't know what pitless you have.

Valveman has posted that he can often find a matching o-ring for a pitless using a kit that has a bunch of o-rings.

https://www.zoro.com/o-ring-assortments/c/7463/ is Zoro's offerings.

Your local big amazing hardware store may have one that works.

I would coat my new pitless lightly o-ring with Molykote 111, because I have it. But if you are also going to use this on moving seals, you can get Dow No. 7 release compound and use it for both static and dynamic seals.
It's a 1" pitless adapter - looks like any standard pitless adapter - I assume that it would have a standard OD O-ring maybe about 1.5" or 2" OD for the O-ring?
 

Reach4

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standard pitless adapter
That's an oxymoron, from what I have been told.

The CAMPBELL MARTINSON B-10X is fairly popular, I don't know how closely others replicate things.

Some have square-cut rings, some have round crosssection, and some old ones might have leather.
 

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Ok - so I bought a couple of O Rings - got some help to pull the pitless adapter and the pump out and found where it was leaking from - not from the O ring but from a hole in the Pitless Adapter itself...I've attached some pictures - I have no idea who makes this and where I can get this from - any help on how to source this part would be very helpful...
IMG_3733.jpg
IMG_3732.jpg
IMG_3730.jpg
 

Valveman

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Ok - so I bought a couple of O Rings - got some help to pull the pitless adapter and the pump out and found where it was leaking from - not from the O ring but from a hole in the Pitless Adapter itself...I've attached some pictures - I have no idea who makes this and where I can get this from - any help on how to source this part would be very helpful...
Should be a name on it somewhere?
 

Reach4

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For future reference, also note it says the o-ring (pressure seal) for the B-10 is L1.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-pitless-gasket.95237/

https://www.pillarsurplus.com/Martinson-Pitless-Adapter-Well-M-B10-M-B11-M-B12-p/l008101.htm shows out of stock, but you might find the pictures useful. When using a leather seal, I think you are supposed to soak it in water for a while. The referenced thread may address that.
 
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LLigetfa

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That "hole" only appears to go through the outside web portion so I would examine it more closely to see if it makes a turn and goes through to the inside.
 

Reach4

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Good point on the hole. Suck on one port while blocking the other port with your hand to see if it holds a vacuum. The top of the pitless, where you screw in the t-handle for lifting, is not a port.

A local welder or plumber might be able to close a hole with a weld or brazing. The seal would need to be removed before the heating.

If the casting does not leak air into the hole when you suck, you may just need a new L-1 seal.
 

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The hole goes through to the inside and was the source of the water spinning out of it at high pressure at the pitless adapter location as shown in the earlier video I attached. The writing on it is Martinson M-B10 which I believe is the one now sold by Campbell as pointed out by Bannerman and Reach4. I have ordered a new one and it should be here in a couple of days - meanwhile I wanted to put the existing one back on so I could get least get water turned back in the house but I am having a hard time getting the male part of the adapter (with the O ring) to slide in fully and sit tightly against the female piece in the well casing. With it not seating I'm not getting any flow to the house as it just is pumping right back into the casing. I am using a 6 foot T made of 1" galvanized pipe -- I am afraid to use a hammer from the top even gently but should I do that to make it slide fully or just try to keep wiggling it so it seats properly?
 

LLigetfa

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A local welder or plumber might be able to close a hole with a weld or brazing.
If it is the leak and I could not find a replacement inside half, I would try brazing it to save having to dig to replace both sides.
I wonder if the brass version is the same form factor (interchangeable).

How deep is the pitless set? Mine is 8 feet deep which would be quite the chore to dig up especially when the ground is still frozen.
 

Bannerman

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Did you lubricate the new O-ring and brass slide with a food grade Silicone grease type lubricant such as Dow #7 release compound or Chemplex 862 Lubricant?
 

Reach4

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I wonder if the brass version is the same form factor (interchangeable).
B-10X and B-10X* use a different seal. So I would tend to expect the new is not compatible with the old, but I could be too pessimistic.
meanwhile I wanted to put the existing one back on so I could get least get water turned back in the house but I am having a hard time getting the male part of the adapter (with the O ring) to slide in fully and sit tightly against the female piece in the well casing. With it not seating I'm not getting any flow to the house as it just is pumping right back into the casing.
How far is it from seating? I suspect some safe lubricant, such as silicone grease
https://www.danco.com/product/0-5-oz-silicone-faucet-grease/ Danco 88693 meets NSF 61 (water)

Also probably suitable would be
https://www.danco.com/product/12-oz-waterproof-grease/ meets NSF 61 (water)
 

Bhavdeep

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The hole goes through to the inside and was the source of the water spinning out of it at high pressure at the pitless adapter location as shown in the earlier video I attached. The writing on it is Martinson M-B10 which I believe is the one now sold by Campbell as pointed out by Bannerman and Reach4. I have ordered a new one and it should be here in a couple of days - meanwhile I wanted to put the existing one back on so I could get least get water turned back in the house but I am having a hard time getting the male part of the adapter (with the O ring) to slide in fully and sit tightly against the female piece in the well casing. With it not seating I'm not getting any flow to the house as it just is pumping right back into the casing. I am using a 6 foot T made of 1" galvanized pipe -- I am afraid to use a hammer from the top even gently but should I do that to make it slide fully or just try to keep wiggling it so it seats properly?
 

Bhavdeep

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B-10X and B-10X* use a different seal. So I would tend to expect the new is not compatible with the old, but I could be too pessimistic.

How far is it from seating? I suspect some safe lubricant, such as silicone grease
https://www.danco.com/product/0-5-oz-silicone-faucet-grease/ Danco 88693 meets NSF 61 (water)

Also probably suitable would be
https://www.danco.com/product/12-oz-waterproof-grease/ meets NSF 61 (water)
I was able to just wiggle it and push it down a bit and it seated. I had put some JB Waterweld to seal the hole and let it sit for about 36 hours - it still is leaking a little bit from the top but not as much as it was before and the pump is now building up to 60 psi and cutting off with the pressure switch inside. I'll see if it holds for the next couple of days until the new pitless adapter arrives.
 

Bhavdeep

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I was able to just wiggle it and push it down a bit and it seated. I had put some JB Waterweld to seal the hole and let it sit for about 36 hours - it still is leaking a little bit from the top but not as much as it was before and the pump is now building up to 60 psi and cutting off with the pressure switch inside. I'll see if it holds for the next couple of days until the new pitless adapter arrives.
All good now. I was able to buy the male end of the Pitless adapter by calling Campbell directly and they shipped one through their local distributor. The one with the JB Weld has held fine so no reason to change it yet but I do have the new one ready to be out in if the repaired one starts leaking again. I am very surprised that the JB weld has held on for almost two weeks now with no leakage.
 

Valveman

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JB weld can do miraculous things. You would also be surprised how well a dry wooden peg will work to plug a hole like that. Drive the peg in, the wood swells when it gets wet, and seals the hole nicely.
 
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