LukeK
New Member
Sorry if long but explaining all up front.
New property to me. New pump installation for irrigation. Existing pump beyond repair. It was a 2hp Utilitec. Plumbing destroyed. It’s a 2”sand point shallow well rated at 75gpm according to well tag. Pump is a Gould GT15.
2” Well casing turns 90 degree toward pump. About 30” to pump. Installed a 2” pvc union then 2” check valve(flow direction correct) then about 14” of 2” to a 1 1/2” reducer into pump.
Tank and manifold built but not connected to gardens.
Primed it, took about 20 seconds to build pressure and ran fine. Good flow, not measured and pressure, pump very quite. Closed valve built pressure shutoff. Came back a while later to check for leaks, none. Ran it longer each day for week then let it run 24 hours into a pond. Raised level as calculated so well can supply the water. Came out a few days later and pump is running! All values closed no leaks. It was running dry for unknown period of time. Inlet pvc pipe expanded so it was loose in the brass check valve and at pump. Guessing that piece was a trash now. A bit of steam maybe from hose bib when opened at prime port. Let it cool off, primed it sounds like rocks so I’m guessing cavitation. Bought rebuild kit and rebuilt pump. Cracked impeller. Took everything apart on suction side and redid the two threaded fittings on check valve with tape and rectoseal. Same at suction inlet. Air pressure tested it to 20 psi and no leaks. Primed it and nothing. Took manifold assembly above the 12” stub at output primed it and getting a small to medium bubble stream but almost no water. So I have a leak somewhere on suction side??? No evidence of leaks anywhere before or after failure. Check valve holding water.
Union coupling primary candidate?? But biggest concern is what caused the initial failure to cause pump to run. Thanks.
New property to me. New pump installation for irrigation. Existing pump beyond repair. It was a 2hp Utilitec. Plumbing destroyed. It’s a 2”sand point shallow well rated at 75gpm according to well tag. Pump is a Gould GT15.
2” Well casing turns 90 degree toward pump. About 30” to pump. Installed a 2” pvc union then 2” check valve(flow direction correct) then about 14” of 2” to a 1 1/2” reducer into pump.
Tank and manifold built but not connected to gardens.
Primed it, took about 20 seconds to build pressure and ran fine. Good flow, not measured and pressure, pump very quite. Closed valve built pressure shutoff. Came back a while later to check for leaks, none. Ran it longer each day for week then let it run 24 hours into a pond. Raised level as calculated so well can supply the water. Came out a few days later and pump is running! All values closed no leaks. It was running dry for unknown period of time. Inlet pvc pipe expanded so it was loose in the brass check valve and at pump. Guessing that piece was a trash now. A bit of steam maybe from hose bib when opened at prime port. Let it cool off, primed it sounds like rocks so I’m guessing cavitation. Bought rebuild kit and rebuilt pump. Cracked impeller. Took everything apart on suction side and redid the two threaded fittings on check valve with tape and rectoseal. Same at suction inlet. Air pressure tested it to 20 psi and no leaks. Primed it and nothing. Took manifold assembly above the 12” stub at output primed it and getting a small to medium bubble stream but almost no water. So I have a leak somewhere on suction side??? No evidence of leaks anywhere before or after failure. Check valve holding water.
Union coupling primary candidate?? But biggest concern is what caused the initial failure to cause pump to run. Thanks.
