Yawn....
I just love how you know more and more about less and less, so that now you know nothing at all...
Its really simple, let me try to expand your knowledge beyond its limited scope....
You have to realize that us plumbers have a thing called the plumbing code....
There are many different codes in different states, countries, and provinces but there is much that is common in them.
These codes are the law, and we have to abide by these laws when we plumb.
DIYers also are required to abide by these laws although checking and enforcement is lacking.
In order for anything to be included or, removed from the plumbing code there is a process that is gone through.
This process involves submitting the proposed change, passing the proposal to members of the board for a review and discussion period, modifications more review and discussion, then finally a vote to include or, reject the proposal.
The code is actually a minimum standard that our work is required to meet.
If you feel that you have a valid point that should change the plumbing code I invite you to submit your proposal...
However, make sure that you have your facts straight and make a convincing argument in your proposal...
Let me caution you I haven't seen anything out of either of you that would do anything more than generate a hearty laugh at your stupidity.
That said, the code which we plumbers makes it obligatory to do the following:
- The maximum pressure allowed in a home is 80 psi which means that above that we install a means of controlling the pressure. The PRVs that we install may create a closed system, or they may have an internal by-pass. The internal bypass mat be defeated in its operation by high water supply pressures from the water purveyor. The water purveyor may at any time increase their supply pressure to meet the demands of the system and the customers are on their own to deal with any problems. We as plumbers when we work on these systems install them in a manner where they function properly and will continue to do so despite changes which are beyond our control.
- Some water purveyors may also install a check valve on their meters which they do in an effort to safeguard the quality of the water supply from sources of contamination. These check valves will create a closed system. In some areas even though check valves are not installed they are being planned in the future. In many cases the codes in these areas are requiring a means of controlling thermal expansion in a closed system even though the need is not presently there. They are phasing in the use of expansion tanks so that when the meters are checked there will be a minimal amount of their customers affected.
- When water is heated water expands, Hopefully we all agree on that! In a closed system a means of controlling thermal expansion must be provided. Some codes spell it out as a thermal expansion tank, others leave it as a means to control thermal expansion. Whatever is used every code I know of states that the means of control cannot be isolated from the water heater, this means that it must be installed between the valve shutting off the water to the water heater and the water heater itself. This excludes many of the engineer suggested products such as the governor 80 ballcock and relief valves on hosebibbs.
Now lets get down to brass tacks and discuss expansion tanks vs. relief valves...
- The main drawback of the relief valve is that it is plumbed to a drain and when it is relieving pressure or, failed huge amounts of water can run directly to a drain without any indication to the customer unless they notice the meter is spinning away like a top or, they receive a huge wate bill. The installation cost is very close to the cost of an expansion tank so there is no economic advantage. Pressure control is limited to 80 psi to the set point of the relief valve.
- The thermal expansion tank on the other hand properly pre-charged and installed has a comparable service life to the relief valve, and maintains a higher degree of pressure control with almost no indictable difference in pressure. There is no discharge of water from the system unless failure has occurred in which case a small discharge from the T&P Valve will be visible. In many areas this was considered as the reasoning for using the expansion tank especially in areas where water conservation is badly needed. Overall it seems like a no-brainer as well.
The subject of T&P Valves is not open for discussion that is a code requirement which if you desire changes to be made you must submit your proposal.
Have a nice day and keep shoveling the muck...
The end of that ditch is out there.
I dropped out of engineering school to take a plumbing job when I saw a friends paycheck who was an engineer....