I have a bunch of posts on here that give time stamps where I bought and installed a $160 (i think) 3/4 hp ebay chinese pump to replace my 1974 made Franklin/Goulds 1/2 hp pump. I notice no difference in electric bill. The folks in this forum told me that using a 3/4 horse pump in 2018 was probably the same as using a 1/2 horse in 1974 due to the changes in they way horsepower was and is now measured. A sidenote, how the hell is horsepower a measure of anything? I had two quarterhorse geldings that were from the same sire and dam, brothers. One was strong and reliable but the other one was stronger but lazy as alll hell. So did i have 2 horse power from my two horses or did I have 1.6 horsepower because one of them was a stump puller but only if he was feeling it that day? The stronger horse had lots of opinions on doing any kind of work. Enough about horses, horsepower is a poor unit of measurement. Also, dont install a $160 chinese pump. While mine has been nothing but perfect, I know someday I will have to yank it upo 200 feet all by myself and install a new one. If you are paying someone to hang a pump you will want a reputabe quality pump down there, if there even is such a thing these days. If changing out pumps doesnt bother you and you enjoy DIY, by all means buy the cheapest piece of siht pump on ebay you can find. If you want to conserve electricity resources, Valveman is correct, you will want a cyclestop valve, because without it, a bladder tank and pressure switch system will cycle the pump on and off. That's how that system is supposed to work. Cycling on and off means that the pump has to start from a dead stop, capacitor or not, to reach operating RPMs which means more power consumption. Its more economical to keep a motor running than to start and stop it repeatedly. Also, these cycles are what destroys your pump. Dont take my word for it, you can measure yourself how much current a stopped motor/impeller assembly consumes when it is fed power and starts up. There is another thing others don't mention. The contactor that is your pressure switch wastes a significant amount of current, even if only for a split second, when it makes the connection, meaning when the switch contact pads engage. That arc from the pressure switch contact pads may not seem like a big deal, but modern utility company electric meters are very good at counting that surge and billing you for it. I was involved in the design of these modern meter marvels.To shorten up what could be a long story, this minutia I am describing might be not different than trying to separate fly poop from ground black pepper, but I think my real answer to this is your proposed selection of pump replacement will probably not change your bill by more than $1 over a one year period. I don't work with Valveman or get anything out of telling you that you should install a cycle stop valve, but I have paperwork that says I know a thing or two about physics. A CSV will save you money in the long run because even the least built pump will not suffer from the frequent on/off that damages ANY electric motor. If you want to conduct an experiment, simply plug in your vacuum cleaner and turn it on and off as much as you can in the course of one hour and then wonder why the cord is hot and the house smells funny. Same idea.