shubb1282
New Member
Looking to install a water system for a roughly 3000sqft house on .54 acre lot in North Idaho with in ground water storage (thinking 3000 gallon)
distance from lake to in ground storage is about 400ft, rise of about 150ft.
Thinking to do a manual valve drainback system. This is due to cost of excavation over that distance to stay below the frost line, and the cost of having to probably have heat tape anyway at the shoreline. May access to lake is through an easement, power is roughly the same distance as water (400ft). Easement does allow manifold and necessary equipment at shoreline property. With the manual valve I can keep the line full of water at least 6 months out of the year, then let it be a drain back when there's a freezing danger.
Had a couple of quotes, both from recommended local companies. Both are recommending VFD's but not necessarily pushing them.
Lake pump
drive pumps
1 quote had the pentek intellikit 1.5hp 15gpm
1 quote had 1hp 7gpm I think this was a franklin unit with the mismatched pump motor
traditional pump
1 quote had 1hp 15gpm pump/motor/control box
reservoir pump/s
1 quote uses pentair intellikit 1.5hp 20gpm
1 quote uses 2 DAB divers pump
both quotes recommend ozone filters in the reservoir
and both quotes use 3 stage filter system in house (20 micron, 5 micron, UV filter) in typical blue filter housing. One quote lists this by name Aqua UV 12gpm triple housing filter.
Drive pumps require a special box for safety tripping of electrical faults with lake portion. I think it was called the waterhawk at $6k roughly all people in the area have said this is the only uv listed device that meets code. traditional pumps use use a normal GFCI
After trying some research on my own, a lot of questions ended up on this forum. So I thought this was the place to make sure I'm doing the correct thing out of the gate. Valveman has me thinking VFD is not the way to go and CSV is the answer but I am getting some pushback from both outfits on this (arguments tend to match what valveman says you will hear, harder on pumps, less efficient, less customizeable, lower quality of life because of less features, not pushing proper amounts of water through pump for cooling) but I am in the area (30min from spokane) where he says one of the worst pump people in the country is from, and not sure how much influence he has on local training/product pushing with other outfits.
I would like a reliable system, I am on a budget but willing for increased cost where it makes sense for efficency, quality of life (features/pressure), longevity of components.
1. recommended lake pump
2. recommended reservoir pump/pumps (house and irrigation)
3. in ground reservoir materiel concrete or poly (3000 gal pre cast concrete is whats being pushed)
4. recommended controls for recommended pump, csv etc
5. Am I reasonable in doing the drain back system, or is i worth quite a bit of larger upfront cost for pressurized year round, does it save much money/electric that I would make this back over time?
6. My mom's house off of a well has one of the larger pressure tanks and filters in the pantry and we do like that it naturally keeps that room cool in all seasons. is this easy to keep in my system or does it just make 0 sense and keep with the small pressure tank at the reservoir.
Hopefully this is the correct place for these questions, thank you in advance for your time.
distance from lake to in ground storage is about 400ft, rise of about 150ft.
Thinking to do a manual valve drainback system. This is due to cost of excavation over that distance to stay below the frost line, and the cost of having to probably have heat tape anyway at the shoreline. May access to lake is through an easement, power is roughly the same distance as water (400ft). Easement does allow manifold and necessary equipment at shoreline property. With the manual valve I can keep the line full of water at least 6 months out of the year, then let it be a drain back when there's a freezing danger.
Had a couple of quotes, both from recommended local companies. Both are recommending VFD's but not necessarily pushing them.
Lake pump
drive pumps
1 quote had the pentek intellikit 1.5hp 15gpm
1 quote had 1hp 7gpm I think this was a franklin unit with the mismatched pump motor
traditional pump
1 quote had 1hp 15gpm pump/motor/control box
reservoir pump/s
1 quote uses pentair intellikit 1.5hp 20gpm
1 quote uses 2 DAB divers pump
both quotes recommend ozone filters in the reservoir
and both quotes use 3 stage filter system in house (20 micron, 5 micron, UV filter) in typical blue filter housing. One quote lists this by name Aqua UV 12gpm triple housing filter.
Drive pumps require a special box for safety tripping of electrical faults with lake portion. I think it was called the waterhawk at $6k roughly all people in the area have said this is the only uv listed device that meets code. traditional pumps use use a normal GFCI
After trying some research on my own, a lot of questions ended up on this forum. So I thought this was the place to make sure I'm doing the correct thing out of the gate. Valveman has me thinking VFD is not the way to go and CSV is the answer but I am getting some pushback from both outfits on this (arguments tend to match what valveman says you will hear, harder on pumps, less efficient, less customizeable, lower quality of life because of less features, not pushing proper amounts of water through pump for cooling) but I am in the area (30min from spokane) where he says one of the worst pump people in the country is from, and not sure how much influence he has on local training/product pushing with other outfits.
I would like a reliable system, I am on a budget but willing for increased cost where it makes sense for efficency, quality of life (features/pressure), longevity of components.
1. recommended lake pump
2. recommended reservoir pump/pumps (house and irrigation)
3. in ground reservoir materiel concrete or poly (3000 gal pre cast concrete is whats being pushed)
4. recommended controls for recommended pump, csv etc
5. Am I reasonable in doing the drain back system, or is i worth quite a bit of larger upfront cost for pressurized year round, does it save much money/electric that I would make this back over time?
6. My mom's house off of a well has one of the larger pressure tanks and filters in the pantry and we do like that it naturally keeps that room cool in all seasons. is this easy to keep in my system or does it just make 0 sense and keep with the small pressure tank at the reservoir.
Hopefully this is the correct place for these questions, thank you in advance for your time.
