Pumping Water From a Lake - problem

[Chillbillwill]

Hi,

I am trying to pump water from a lake and ran 1” PVC a year ago before doing the proper research. Beginning in the lake I have a filter 12” off the bottom, 5’ below the surface. Then a check valve. Then approx 80’ with a total rise of 10’. After the 80’ run, I have a 1HP Myers shallow well jet pump running on 115. I have a 2nd check valve about 12” out on the outflow line which is also 1”. It then goes to a 30 gallon pressure tank, then to a valve.

I was able to get the pump primed and water is flowing great, probably 15 gpm. The problem is when I close the valve, and the pressure begins to build, once it achieves the desired pressure (60 psi) the pressure guage begins to flicker and something chatters or clicks loudly while the guage is flickering. This goes on for probably 8-10 seconds before the breaker trips.

It seems to work great while the valve is open, but when I close it, this happens every time. A retired electrician working at Lowe’s said that the pump draws a max 18.2 amps when running on a 115 and since I am only using 12 guage wire, it’s overheating causing the breaker to trip. He recommend either running a 220 to it (not feisable) or getting a smaller pump that draws less amps.

Does anyone disagree with him and think there is something else that might be going on. He was not familiar with pumps, etc. Would a 3/4HP give me 8-10 gpm? I am not really sure what gpm I need to for my irrigation system. It’s currently operating on city water and when I installed it, I installed 3 zones with 6 MP rotators / zone. 4 out of the 6 are 3000’s. The other 2 are 2000’s.

Also, after reading other forums, I am aware that I should have used something larger than 1” for the run and also it’s better to have the pump closer to the shore. Let’s just say that if those two factors had to remain as is, are there any solutions that someone might have??? Am I going to ruin any pump I put there b/c of those factors?? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Bill

 

[Reach4]

He recommend either running a 220 to it (not feisable)

Why not feasible? No available space in the breaker box?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

I can't see it, but if you have a check valve on the discharge side, that is your problem. There cannot be a check valve between the pressure tank and pressure switch or you will have that clicking problem. It is working on 115V, and it is pumping water. Just need to remove that extra check valve as the only one you want is used as a foot valve at the bottom of the suction line. Also you can have a screen on the suction, but a filter will have too much restriction and needs to be on the discharge side of the pump.