Old water heater, plastic drain valve, inside house, how to drain?

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Paulcalif

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Retired pipefitter, industrial plumber here. Going to help a friend change out a very old water heater with a plastic drain valve. The heater is inside the house so risking changing out the drain valve is probably not a good option. Anyone ever try putting tubing down inside from the outlet port on the top and syphoning out the water? (Into buckets if necessary). Or do you guys have a better suggestion? I just know that valve isn't going to work and the nipple will snap if I try to remove it. And at 400 plus pounds full I don't want to try and move it full.
 

Terry

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Old water heater, plastic drain.
Sometimes the hose won't thread on, because the lip at the end it too long. In those cases I saw a bit of the end off.

Siphoning.
Master Plumber Mark told me he uses 1/2" PEX works well. I've since tried it too, and yes it works. :)
Remove one of the nipples from the top and put the PEX down that. Or if that doesn't work, remove the T&P and use that hole.

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When I'm draining with a hose, I keep the water on to the water heater, and then open the drain valve up, hopefully forcing the sludge at the bottom of the tank through so that it drains better after I turn off the water supply to the tank.
With the water turned off to the tank, you will need to open a hot side valve to let air back in, or use the T&P for that.

water-heater-drain-valve.jpg
 
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Paulcalif

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Old water heater, plastic drain.
Sometimes the hose won't thread on, because the lip at the end it too long. In those cases I saw a bit of the end off.

Siphoning.
Master Plumber Mark told me he uses 1/2" PEX works well. I've since tried it too, and yes it works. :)
Remove one of the nipples from the top and put the PEX down that. Or if that doesn't work, remove the T&P and use that hole.

index.php


When I'm draining with a hose, I keep the water on to the water heater, and then open the drain valve up, hopefully forcing the sludge at the bottom of the tank through so that it drains better after I turn off the water supply to the tank.
With the water turned off to the tank, you will need to open a hot side valve to let air back in, or use the T&P for that.
Thanks for the reply, using PEX is a good idea. I was thinking of using soft clear poly tubing so I could see the water. I was worried that there might be something inside the tank that would block the tube from going to the bottom of the tank.
 

Fitter30

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3/4" mpt x hose to cold inlet
3/4" mpt x 1 /4 " bushing or bell reducer air compressor fitting and compressor. Blow out water to the end of dip tube then siphon the rest.
 
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Paulcalif

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3/4" mpt x hose to cold inlet
3/4" mpt x 1 /4 " bushing or bell reducer air compressor fitting and compressor. Blow out water to the end of dip tube then siphon the rest.
I like it! Do those dip tubes stay intact over the years? I need to be ready as he's over 100 miles away. Thanks, you given me some good ideas
 

Master Plumber Mark

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If the t+p valve is on top of the heater just remove it and throw a 10 foot peice of 1/2 pex down into the heater and siphon out most of the heater that way...
those plastic drain valves get very brittle over the years
and can literally snap off in the unit....
and of course you can always attempt to put a hose on the bottom and
see if it drains out., probably very slowly.....

sooo I would probably do both options
 
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