Newly installed shower not staying hot

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Frank the Tank

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Hello, so just had a new shower installed as part of bathroom model. The problem is that the water will get hot for a couple minutes but won't stay hot past that. My contractor said I can adjust it, but not to do this until after the project is completed and the inspection takes place b/c adjusting it now may cause inspection to fail. If that doesn't work, says it will be a big project to replace the valve. Does that sound right? Is this a common problem? Shouldn't contractor made sure it worked properly before finishing the tile, etc.? The shower and valve are both Grohe products if that matters. Thanks in advance.
 

Jadnashua

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It's likely that the max temperature, anti-scald stop needs adjusting. WHen you first turn things on, there's a bunch of realtively warm water in the cold line since it's been sitting in the house pipes for potentially awhile. Once that gets flushed out, this time of year, the incoming cold water can be significantly colder, and because the valve you have is just adjusting the balance of hot/cold versus a thermostatic valve, the outlet will tend to get cooler as all of those pipes cool off to the incoming cold water temperature.

The solution to that is to adjust the max travel of the valve. On some, that's a set screw, on others, it's a cam and could be different from either of them. Code wants the maximum temp to be 120-degrees F. From the factory, that stop may be set too low. The fix is to adjust the stop.

It's possible that the inspector will test the max temp setting, but I've not seen them do it. The hassle with this type of valve is if you adjust it in the winter, it might be able to get too hot in the summer. If adjusted in the summer, it won't get warm enough in the winter. The way to resolve that is a different type of valve...one that has a thermostatic valve - it will adjust the balance all on its own.
 

Frank the Tank

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It's likely that the max temperature, anti-scald stop needs adjusting. WHen you first turn things on, there's a bunch of realtively warm water in the cold line since it's been sitting in the house pipes for potentially awhile. Once that gets flushed out, this time of year, the incoming cold water can be significantly colder, and because the valve you have is just adjusting the balance of hot/cold versus a thermostatic valve, the outlet will tend to get cooler as all of those pipes cool off to the incoming cold water temperature.

The solution to that is to adjust the max travel of the valve. On some, that's a set screw, on others, it's a cam and could be different from either of them. Code wants the maximum temp to be 120-degrees F. From the factory, that stop may be set too low. The fix is to adjust the stop.

It's possible that the inspector will test the max temp setting, but I've not seen them do it. The hassle with this type of valve is if you adjust it in the winter, it might be able to get too hot in the summer. If adjusted in the summer, it won't get warm enough in the winter. The way to resolve that is a different type of valve...one that has a thermostatic valve - it will adjust the balance all on its own.
Well thanks for the reply. I guess I was kind of an idiot when i bought the valve as I really had no clue about what I was buying. It sounds like the adjustment should fix it though which is good news. My contractor wants me to wait until the inspection so I guess I'll do that, and hopefully the adjustment will solve the problem once that's done.
 

Jadnashua

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The vast majority of showers are built with the same type of single handle control...they work, but they all have some sort of max temp stop built into them to pass code. They are set at the factory for 'normal' water temperature, which may not be normal for many people. It is quite common to have to readjust that limit once it's actually installed, and it should be part of the installation procedure you paid for.

Even the thermostatically controlled valves may need calibration, but they're usually able to compensate. On them, they may have an indication of what the temperature should be (in degrees), and you calibrate it until that is correct, if necessary. After that, it will automatically hold that temperature by adjusting how much cold is fed in. A conventional single-handle valve starts out at all cold, and as you rotate, decreases the amount of cold while increasing the amount of hot. The safety stop prevents you from (in most cases) getting to all hot to prevent scalding. In the winter, with cold incoming water, you may need more hot to be comfortable.

It's a very simple thing, once you identify the type of method they use on your valve. If you don't have the installation instructions (the plumber should have left them with you), on a new valve, you should be able to download them from the manufacturer's website. Personally, I'd tweak it now if you're wanting to use the shower. I see no big reason to wait as long as you don't go overboard and adjust it so it can be scalding...I'd go a little past your comfort level, but still tolerable. It will be hotter in the summer with the warmer cold supply, so you don't want to go overboard, but still be able to make it comfortable after a cold snap when the cold water can plunge in temperature, too.
 

Reach4

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Hello, so just had a new shower installed as part of bathroom model. The problem is that the water will get hot for a couple minutes but won't stay hot past that.
Make sure the water into the valve is full hot before looking to the valve as the problem.
 
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