Newbie needs advice Cycle Stop Valve

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DodgeRamFan57

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My current specs as far as I know are: 100' well, pump at 40', pump is a 1HP 25GPM at 50psi Myers pump with a Champion (Clayton Mark) CM10050 pressure tank (which I believe is going bad) and a 40/60 switch. The house has 2 1/2 bathrooms, 3 outside spigots and a 10 zone irrigation system. Would the PK1A Pside kick kit work for my needs? I also have a water conditioner and water softener system installed as well as a tankless hot water heater.

Or would I be better installing something like a CSV125-1 inline with a new pressure tank, maybe around 20 gallons?
 

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Either the CSV1A as comes in the PK1A kit, or the CSV12550-1 as xomes in the PK125 kit will work with that system.

If installed in the house the PK1A is best. If you need to install the CSV in the well or before a water line tee and then put the little pressure tank in the house, the PK125 would be best.
 

DodgeRamFan57

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Should I be concerned using a CSV on a 20 year old well and pump? The tank is original too, and I believe it is undersized due to the addition of the irrigation system. I believe it is only a 45 gallon tank from what little specs I could find online.



Either the CSV1A as comes in the PK1A kit, or the CSV12550-1 as xomes in the PK125 kit will work with that system.

If installed in the house the PK1A is best. If you need to install the CSV in the well or before a water line tee and then put the little pressure tank in the house, the PK125 would be best.
 

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The CSV cannot do anything about the damage that has already occured in the last 20 years of cycling. Buit it can stop any more damage from happening. With or without a CSV your pump may last only one more day or it might have another 20 years left in it.

The CSV will stop the cycling and reduce the running amps, which makes the motor run cooler. The back pressure from a CSV will test the thrust bearing. If the bearing is still good the amps will reduce with the flow rate. If the thrust bearing is bad, the amps will increase with a decrease in flow rate. And while a motor with a bad thrust bearing may not trip the overload when no CSV is installed, it is still on it's last leg and is just a matter of a short time until the motor quits all together. Adding back pressure with a ball valve or CSV is how you test a thrust bearing. And if the amps go up with an increase in back pressure, you just as well replace the motor before it quits you on a holiday weekend.
 

DodgeRamFan57

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OK. And where would I be able to test the amp draw at? I'm guessing that has to be done at the pump or motor? That's not something I can test with a multimeter from the switch?

The CSV cannot do anything about the damage that has already occured in the last 20 years of cycling. Buit it can stop any more damage from happening. With or without a CSV your pump may last only one more day or it might have another 20 years left in it.

The CSV will stop the cycling and reduce the running amps, which makes the motor run cooler. The back pressure from a CSV will test the thrust bearing. If the bearing is still good the amps will reduce with the flow rate. If the thrust bearing is bad, the amps will increase with a decrease in flow rate. And while a motor with a bad thrust bearing may not trip the overload when no CSV is installed, it is still on it's last leg and is just a matter of a short time until the motor quits all together. Adding back pressure with a ball valve or CSV is how you test a thrust bearing. And if the amps go up with an increase in back pressure, you just as well replace the motor before it quits you on a holiday weekend.
 

Reach4

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OK. And where would I be able to test the amp draw at? I'm guessing that has to be done at the pump or motor? That's not something I can test with a multimeter from the switch?
It could be done at the switch or even at the breaker.
 

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You need a clip around amp meter. Clip around an L1 or L2 wire at the breaker, pressure switch, or control box.

But if you don't have an amp meter just restrict the flow to about 1-2 GPM with a ball valve or a CSV. If it doesn't trip the overload in the motor in a couple of minutes, your motor is still good.
 

DodgeRamFan57

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I know this is an old post, but I emailed Cycle Stop Valve with this info and they said the PK125 would be better due to friction loss. Should I be concerned with using the PK1A? I'm actually considering the 10 gallon tank and 60psi pressure setting.
 

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It depends on the size of pump. With 15 GPM or less there isn't much friction loss in the CSV1A. But at 20-25 GPM there is a lot more friction loss in the CSV1A than in the CSV125. Although the only time you even see friction loss with a CSV is if/when you try to use the max flow the pump can produce, and that rarely happens.
 

DodgeRamFan57

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Pump is a Myers 25gpm. I also have a tee for a sprinkler system and the website says to use the CSV125 kit if that's the case. I want to mount it all inside though. I'm getting a new two tank softener system so want it done before thats installed.

It depends on the size of pump. With 15 GPM or less there isn't much friction loss in the CSV1A. But at 20-25 GPM there is a lot more friction loss in the CSV1A than in the CSV125. Although the only time you even see friction loss with a CSV is if/when you try to use the max flow the pump can produce, and that rarely happens.
 

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At 25 GPM the CSV125 has almost no friction loss, the CSV1A had 25 PSI loss, the CSV2W has 15 PSI loss, and a CSV3B2T would have 7 PSI loss. But again the only time you see friction loss with a 25 GPM pump is when you are using 25 GPM, and most people never use the max flow.
 

DodgeRamFan57

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Cary, would you be able to call me to talk more about this?

At 25 GPM the CSV125 has almost no friction loss, the CSV1A had 25 PSI loss, the CSV2W has 15 PSI loss, and a CSV3B2T would have 7 PSI loss. But again the only time you see friction loss with a 25 GPM pump is when you are using 25 GPM, and most people never use the max flow.
 
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