New tub, Do I Durock over lip? Is it OK to use PVC W&O drain?

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by jpatz18, Nov 9, 2016.

  1. jpatz18

    jpatz18 New Member

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2016
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    If the drain is in a concealed location, the new codes call for a waste and overflow that is glued with no slip nut joints. If it's accessible, you use one with slip nut joints.
    I have seen backer board installed over the lip if the walls are shimmed, and I've seen the backer board held up above the lip.
     
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  4. hj

    hj Master Plumber

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    The first question would be why are you using a steel tub. In my opinion, they are worthless the day they are installed and just go downhill from there.
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Is that an endorsement of acrylic tubs? [​IMG]
     
  6. jpatz18

    jpatz18 New Member

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    Thanks All the ones I looked at have slip nuts. Where do i get them where they dont?
     
  7. JRC3

    JRC3 Member

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    Glue traps are over with all the other pvc fittings and not with the regular traps.

    I install my backer board above the lip. One reason is so the last row of tile stays flat. It's easier because the tile doesn't have to be cut to fit the adjacent wall, but more so the tile job just looks better. The other reason, not sure if true or not, I think it gives less chance of water wicking up the backer board. That space behind the tile at the tub will more than likely always be wet.
     
  8. hj

    hj Master Plumber

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    On the scale from 1 to 10 EVERYTHING is above a steel tub.
     
  9. JRC3

    JRC3 Member

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    But, but...They're only $114. Haha.
     
  10. MKS

    MKS Member

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    3x114 gets a good 300 lb cast-iron tub.
    Not easy to move but proven. In the big picture this is a big job, would cost 10k plus , a couple hundred more on the tub is not a big deal considering your doing it yourself.
    I like stepping in the cast-iron tub, it doesn't move.
     
  11. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Most people these days are using fairly large tile. The guideline is that your tile should be supported by more than 1/2 on the wall for the bottom row. Since you aren't walking on it, it doesn't need to be fully supported (but it doesn't hurt!). Tub flanges vary from barely nothing to maybe as much as 2" tall, depending on the model and materials involved.

    Personally, I'd trash the cbu and use something like KerdiBoard or WediBoard...totally waterproof once you've treated the seams and penetrations, goes up quicker, much easier to carry and cut, neater (cbu dust can be carcinogenic). If you wish, you can easily notch the backside of those boards with a rabbit joint, and lap it over the tub flange. It will allow a totally waterproof seal to the tub surface (cbu is NOT waterproof, but is not damaged by being wet). Yes, they do cost more, but you'll end up with something waterproof verses water resistant and not break your back carrying it upstairs in the process!
     
  12. dj2

    dj2 In the Trades

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    "Personally, I'd trash the cbu and use something like KerdiBoard or WediBoard...totally waterproof once you've treated the seams and penetrations, goes up quicker, much easier to carry and cut, neater (cbu dust can be carcinogenic). If you wish, you can easily notch the backside of those boards with a rabbit joint, and lap it over the tub flange. It will allow a totally waterproof seal to the tub surface (cbu is NOT waterproof, but is not damaged by being wet). Yes, they do cost more, but you'll end up with something waterproof verses water resistant and not break your back carrying it upstairs in the process!"


    I still use cement boards. There is no dust if you use the right cutting tool. You can even notch it with a sharp utility knife. Cement boards do need moisture barriers.
     
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