New member needing help with a CSV - not building pressure

[APG12]

Hey guys - new member here looking for some help with a CSV PK1A.

I installed the PK1A about a month ago, and other than the supplied pressure not working (I used another one I had on hand), it’s been working great.

Two days ago I developed a leak in my well supply line under the slab in my garage. After a lot of cursing and big mess, I broke open the slab and patched the poly line. All was good after that and the system pressurized, though the pressure seemed a bit lower than normal. I figured I would mess with the settings today.

This morning I found my pump running constantly and the system not pressurizing to reach the cut off. As soon as I turn the power on to the pump, it reaches about 30 PSI and continues to run, whether or not there is a faucet turned on. The pump does not shut off as it is not pressurizing and not reaching the 60 psi cut off.

Any ideas? I am far from a professional plumber so I’m not really sure where to start. Thanks in asdvance for any help.

 

[Reach4]

Is the pump a submersible, or is the pump a jet pump (above ground)?

If it is a submersible, you may have another water leak. That leak could be down the well, or it could be underground again.

How far down is your water? What pump is this, if you know?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Turn off power to the pump. When no one is using water do you still lose pressure? Having one bad spot in the pipe doesn't bode well for the rest of the water line.

 

[APG12]

Submersible pump. Recently replaced (2017). When I shut off the pump it instantly loses pressure and it sounds like air/suction at the check valve.

Also when the CSV was working properly, it was loud like strong flowing water. Now it is silent and hard for me to even tell the pump is on.

 

[APG12]

 

[APG12]

It almost seems like it’s bypassing the pressure tank and just giving me whatever pressure it’s pumping at.

 

[Reach4]

If you want to not bypass the pressure tank for testing purposes, drop the air precharge to maybe 15 or 20 PSI. Now the pressure tank will take water.

With an 8 gpm leak, as you probably have, the pressure will drop really fast when you power off the pump. If the pressure does not drop off quickly, that would be significant.

Remember to pump the precharge back up once you fix the leak and before you turn on the pump.

 

[APG12]

If you want to not bypass the pressure tank for testing purposes, drop the air precharge to maybe 15 or 20 PSI. Now the pressure tank will take water.

With an 8 gpm leak, as you probably have, the pressure will drop really fast when you power off the pump. If the pressure does not drop off quickly, that would be significant.

Remember to pump the precharge back up once you fix the leak and before you turn on the pump.

I’ll try this tomorrow, thank you for the help. Any thoughts on how to locate the potential leak? The first one was easy - I could hear it and also had water coming up through the slab. Nothing visible so far for a second one.

 

[Reach4]

I’ll try this tomorrow, thank you for the help. Any thoughts on how to locate the potential leak? The first one was easy - I could hear it and also had water coming up through the slab. Nothing visible so far for a second one.

You could lift the well cap, and listen down the well.

If the leak is in the well, the water would warm up after a while. With a 1/2 HP pump, the warming would be rather slow. If the leak is in the yard, I would not expect the water to warm at all.

 

[APG12]

You could lift the well cap, and listen down the well.

If the leak is in the well, the water would warm up after a while. With a 1/2 HP pump, the warming would be rather slow. If the leak is in the yard, I would not expect the water to warm at all.

Forgive my ignorance. What would I be listening for in the well and would I hear anything at 100’?

Also what would cause the water to warm if it was a leak in the well?

 

[Reach4]

1. Something more than a hum. If the leak is at the pitless or above the water level, there should be significant sound.
2. The pump will be like a 500 watt heater. If the water is recirculating in the well, the warmth will build up. Slowly. I have not worked out numbers.

 

[APG12]

1. Something more than a hum. If the leak is at the pitless or above the water level, there should be significant sound.
2. The pump will be like a 500 watt heater. If the water is recirculating in the well, the warmth will build up. Slowly. I have not worked out numbers.

Ok thanks again. I’ll take a look at these recommendations tomorrow.

 

[Valveman]

Even a 7 GPM, 1/2HP pump can only build 129 PSI. I am guessing it is a 10 GPM pump that can only build 108 PSI. Either way that is really low pressure to be having pipe problems. Can you read on the side of the pipe what kind it is?

 

[APG12]

Even a 7 GPM, 1/2HP pump can only build 129 PSI. I am guessing it is a 10 GPM pump that can only build 108 PSI. Either way that is really low pressure to be having pipe problems. Can you read on the side of the pipe what kind it is?

And all of a sudden to have multiple leaks? I can’t understand it. It’s been pretty cold here but the leak under the slab was under my heated garage that never comes close to freezing. I’ll see if I can get a read on the pipe in a few but this is what it looks like:

 

[Valveman]

Well you will have more pressure on the pipe prior to a CSV than the pipe after the CSV. But even 100 PSI poly should hold up to a 1/2HP pump, and that should be 160# pipe minimum. Like I said I am guessing that pump will only do 108 PSI, but even if it is the 129 PSI pump, the pipe should not be a problem. Sounds like the pipe needed replacing anyway.

 

[APG12]

Well you will have more pressure on the pipe prior to a CSV than the pipe after the CSV. But even 100 PSI poly should hold up to a 1/2HP pump, and that should be 160# pipe minimum. Like I said I am guessing that pump will only do 108 PSI, but even if it is the 129 PSI pump, the pipe should not be a problem. Sounds like the pipe needed replacing anyway.

Thanks for the info. I’m about to start troubleshooting some of the ideas that Reach4 recommended. Any thoughts on your end?

And of course the ground is frozen so hang digging isnt really even an option.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah take the cap off the well to listen and have a look. If you don't see or hear a leak you can pull the pump off the pitless and see if the pipe is staying full of water. If the down pipe stays full to the pitless, there is no leak down the well.

 

[APG12]

I just popped the cap on the well and could hear the hum of the pump, but when I put my ear to the well I could hear a couple faint noises - a dripping sound and like a bubbling sound.

Did I just find my leak? This goes way beyond my capabilities if so. What can I expect when when I call the professional?

 

[Valveman]

It won't take a professional long to find the leak. They can pull the pump off the pitless and see if the pipe is holding water. If not they will just pull it all out and find the leak. If the down pipe stays full to the pitless, they will be looking at the underground pipe instead.

 

[APG12]

I have a plumber coming this afternoon so I’ll let you guys know what he says.