Moving Toilet

[strafe]

Need Advice!

Bathroom remodel is getting a slightly larger tub and a smaller vanity which requires moving the toilet at least 2" up to 7" inches to the left as you face it to reposition it once again somewhat in the middle of these to items. This installation is on a concrete slab.

What's the best way to go about this project? How far down do I have to go? Can I just remove the existing flange and install one that will move me a couple of inches to the left? How difficult is it going to be to get the old flange out?

Thanks

 

[hj]

flange

Break the floor, cut off the toilet horizontal pipe, (with the flange), install the necessary fittings to move it to the correct location and have a new riser. Pour the concrete back, install a new flange, and then set the toilet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

HJ pretty well covered the moving process, but you must have 16" on each side. You could fudge an inch or so, but not much more.

 

[hj]

clearance

It is 15" on either side minimum to the center of the pipe in the floor.

 

[strafe]

The new placement will have at least 15" on either side only after the pipe or the flange is moved away from the new tub installation.

The 15" minimum is being encroached on by the installation of the new tub on the right side of the toilet as you face it. I want to reconfigure the toilet to be in the middle of the space left behind as the new tub grows to 32" from 30" and the new vanity shrinks approximately 10".

What do you suggest I use to cut the toilet pipe? I anticipate getting behind or underneath of the pipe to be a problem. How big of a hole do I have to make?

 

[Jadnashua]

Is the pipe cast iron or plastic? Plastic cuts pretty easily. Cast iron, rent a snap cutter. You'll need to make the hole big enough to get around the pipe and make the new connections, so, it depends - it just needs to be big enough to reach everything you need.

 

[strafe]

Toilet Moved

Hired a pro to do it. Took him and a helper about six hours. The project went just as it was explained to me on this board, however not knowing what to expect it would have taken me alot longer.

Cost about a $1000.00, most of which was busting concrete, but I could see how this project could have gone terribly wrong if one didn't know what he was doing. I consider it money well spent.

Last question is: is there any secret to filling in the hole? I was just going to put some of the busted concrete back in, concrete mix and fill and level to existing floor level. Maybe do this in a two step process to limit the problems of any settling. Am I on the right track or am I missing something?

I appreciate everyone's contributions to my post.

Thanks, JM

 

[Jadnashua]

I'd fill the hole with sand around the pipe - chunks of old concrete are likely to prevent you from getting a good void-free fill around the pipes and could have some sharp edges poking into it. You want the pipe supported from the bottom and protected from the top before the concrete. Then maybe some gravel to about the bottom of the existing slab. While not absolutely necessary, I'd also drill some holes into the sides of the hole and insert some stubs of rebar to help keep the new slab from sinking after pouring new concrete on top.