Moving sink drain laterally - need someone to please double check

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Sokolq55

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My original bathroom sink drain is not centered and the new vanity would need quite a bit of mods to make it work

So I want to just move the drain. Can someone confirm what I have in the picture will work? I would remove the original drain tee, put in a new one but rotated left, run a short piece of 1-1/2 pipe and then have a 90 drain to sink connector come out of the wall right next to that left stud. Everything will be on the same level - ie that 90 is coming out of wall horizontally….just hard to draw it that way.

Will this work? Particularly thinking if I am messing anything up with the vent by putting in that 90.

Thank you!

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Sokolq55

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Yes, that's fine. You could also just use a 45 on the trap arm. Possibly even with the current san-tee and a "Freedom Arm," depending on the offset you need. Or by rotating the san-tee only 45 degrees.


Cheers, Wayne
You’re saying instead of running a new horizontal completely within the wall cavity, just run a horizontal from existing san-tee on the outside of the wall but at a 45 angle to the p trap? I do have the wall opened up already, but I wish I read your post before I did that lol. It would still require cutting into the vanity divider wall a bit, but wouldn’t be nearly as destructive as messing with the drawers.

Now at the risk of getting smitten by the plumbing gods, should I even consider doing this with ferncos? Sure would make my life easier soldering around that rigid foam insulation…
 

WorthFlorida

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With copper pipe changing it in any direction can be a bit of a challenge. My thoughts are the same as Wayne. If the current drain location will be under the new sink cabinet, add a 45º bend to point it toward the sink drain. Just to be sure do find the height of the new sink drain in the new cabinet to be sure the current drain height will work. 1.5" copper needs a lot of heat and a standard propane torch may not get hot enough.
 

Sokolq55

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With copper pipe changing it in any direction can be a bit of a challenge. My thoughts are the same as Wayne. If the current drain location will be under the new sink cabinet, add a 45º bend to point it toward the sink drain. Just to be sure do find the height of the new sink drain in the new cabinet to be sure the current drain height will work.

Challenging as in hard to do or as in you may screw up your venting or something like that?

For the height I think it should work either way - I could just use a shorter or longer vertical tail piece as long as it’s not too high?
 

Terry

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Two shielded couplings, they make them that go from copper to plastic sizing.
Then either PVC or ABS for straight sections, santee and 90 bend.

The rubber tee there is a no go.
 

Sokolq55

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Well, it’s not the most elegant thing in the world, but I think it should work, unless y’all tell me otherwise. Thanks for all the advice!

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wwhitney

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Looks good to me, assuming that you use the correct plastic to copper sized shielded couplings, and the elbow inlet is sloped at least 2% (1/4" per foot).

Looks like you used flat head screws for securing the brackets to the face of the framing. Those stick out a fair amount and would interfere with the drywall. So I suggest switching to something lower profile--roofing nails or a thin wafer head screw.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Sokolq55

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Looks good to me, assuming that you use the correct plastic to copper sized shielded couplings, and the elbow inlet is sloped at least 2% (1/4" per foot).

Looks like you used flat head screws for securing the brackets to the face of the framing. Those stick out a fair amount and would interfere with the drywall. So I suggest switching to something lower profile--roofing nails or a thin wafer head screw.

Cheers, Wayne
Thanks! Yes sir to all of that. Good point on the screws - will need to switch out. After leaning the drywall piece back in place it’s a good bit off. I should have notched out the studs a bit.
 
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