Master Bath Renovation

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Arnav

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Hi,
Here is the dry fitted layout in the crawl space. I thought I am not going to have enough height for proper pitch but have plenty. I was able to put 10' long pipes in there due to the 24" OC trusses. I can't imagine doing it with 16" OC.
The next few posts go from upstream to downstream.

First up is the 2" wet vent that goes AAV2 --> Lav 2 --> Tub --> shower

Not shown:
- Pipes straps to sub-floor and trusses
 

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Arnav

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1.5" wet vent from AAV1 --> Lav 1 -> (and eventually the WC)
 

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Arnav

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And finally how it all comes together to join the main 3" pipe.
It looks like pipe are touching but they are not. There is at least 0.5" between them.

It would have been easier to have the 2" pipe from lav 2 join before the WC, but as you explained than I need a 3" pipe since it would wet vent the WC.
 

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Reach4

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I haven't seen any guidance on how the 4" requirement is measured. From trap arm inside bottom, center-line, or top? To top of threaded fitting that receives the AAV, or some point on the AAV (bottom, diaphragm, top)? Do you have a reference?
Did some more searching. See figure 4 of https://www.iccsafe.org/building-sa...enotes-installation-of-air-admittance-valves/ which seems to imply the top of the trap arm pipe.
aav-figure-4.jpg


https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Oatey-39005-OATEY-SubmittalSheet.pdf a drawing on the second pdf page seems to agree, but also implies that the level of the AAV to measure to is the top of the threads

img_2b.png
 

Arnav

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Reach4 said:
But also implies that the level of the AAV to measure to is the top of the threads
Which make sense since the diaphragm is right above the threads. So it can be generalized to say: 4" from the top of the trap pipe to the AAV diaphragm (which is most likely right above the threads but may vary depending on the AAV).
 

Arnav

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Hi,

In general, is it better to clamp where the fitting meets the pipe or the pipe itself?

Thx!
 

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Arnav

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Hi,
Is 3/4" gap enough between 3/4" hot and cold copper pipes? They are going in front of dry-walled furring strips. If so, I'll protect them with 5" nail plates.

Thx!
 

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Arnav

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Hi,
Just to catch-up the thread to the latest and then a question...
The two Lav's DWV. The pipes are only temporarily being held so that minor adjustments can be made when the sink is delivered (hopefully in two weeks). I'll then fully strap them to the wall.
Since the picture was taken, I added a temp sink on the left so that pipe is already in use.
 

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Arnav

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The right lav wet venting the tub and shower before going down to the crawl space. The right branch from the wye towards the shower is not cemented yet so it should be ignored.
 

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Arnav

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And finally both lavs + shower + tub drainage in the crawl space (and where lav 1 wet vent the WC).
Now I know why plumbers like ABS. There is no purple primer to make for messy pictures. :)
 

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Arnav

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The copper pipes for Lav 1 and Lav 2
They are not connected to the main supply lines yet.
Nail plates are not shown but will be added.
 

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Arnav

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Does this looks OK for the tub's supply valve (a Delta R4700-FL)? The copper is just dry fitted.
I originally wanted a different layout that had both pipes next to each other, but realized that the hot-cold pipes need to cross each other between the tub's and shower supply values since they are facing each other on opposite side of the room (if that make sense). Not shown: straps. Also hard to tell from this angle, but there is 3/4" between the pipes coming from the left.

If this was you doing it, would you sweat it in place or off the surface?
 

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Reach4

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Hi,
Just to catch-up the thread to the latest and then a question...
The two Lav's DWV. The pipes are only temporarily being held so that minor adjustments can be made when the sink is delivered (hopefully in two weeks). I'll then fully strap them to the wall.
Since the picture was taken, I added a temp sink on the left so that pipe is already in use.
You need to vent the traps before heading down more than 1/4 inch per foot. Will that have been done before the drainage hits the wall?
 

Arnav

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Hi,

Context: a Delta R10000-UNBX value

1. The ones I sweat before, to close off the bottom inlet, i used a short pipe and a cap. This valve is within a cinderblock wall so I don't have a lot of extra room.
Can you use a 1/2" copper plug instead of a pipe + cap?

2. 1/2" copper street elbows seems to have a lot more wiggle room within the cup/valve than a 1/2" pipe. Is that normal?

Thx!
 
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