Loop Venting

[Victorr]

Renovating a 1978 house, I just installed a larger window on top of the kitchen sink, and I am not going to be able to have a trap arm connecting directly to the vent for a structural reason.

I am now obligated to do a loop venting (right?), I have already read multiple threads about it, but I just want to make sure that I am planning it correctly.

1- Am I allowed to have most of the piping in the crawl space at a 45-degree angle as shown in the picture?

2- Do I have to have a cleanout for the drain branch after the P-trap?

3- Is there anything on the pictures that I attached that violate code?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Victor

 

[Terry]

You will want a cleanout on the p-trap side in the cabinet.
The cleanout for the foot vent is good.
45's in the crawl work well. At a 45 it's considered vertical.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Victorr]

You will want a cleanout on the p-trap side in the cabinet.
The cleanout for the foot vent is good.
45's in the crawl work well. At a 45 it's considered vertical.

Thanks for the reply Terry.

I also read that some jurisdictions would not allow a loop vent on a sink that is not on an island, is that the case?

I am planning to have all the piping above floor inside the stud cavity, and only give access to the cleanouts, is that ok?

If I were to simplify the previous diagrams to the following setup, will it create any problem?

Thanks!

Victor

 

[Terry]

This drawing is better.
Yes, Island venting is only if you can't vent normally. You would need to ask an inspector if he's okay doing that on an outside wall. It does bypass going through the studs though.

 

[Victorr]

I looked up how big of a hole I was allowed to make in a 2x4 load bearing wall, and it shows 1-7/16" MAX, or a notch of 7/8" deep MAX.

Here is my configuration:

I am only left with doing a loop vent, correct?

 

[Jadziedzic]

You might be able to squeak by with using a custom-fabricated stud shoe to reinforce a bored hole through the four studs; the biggest one I've seen from Strong Tie is for a triple. Check with your Authority Having Jurisdiction to see what they will allow there. (I'm assuming you really do NEED the four studs on each side of the window; is there some tremendous load up there?)

 

[Victorr]

You might be able to squeak by with using a custom-fabricated stud shoe to reinforce a bored hole through the four studs; the biggest one I've seen from Strong Tie is for a triple. Check with your Authority Having Jurisdiction to see what they will allow there. (I'm assuming you really do NEED the four studs on each side of the window; is there some tremendous load up there?)

I had never heard of the stud shoe, but that is pretty amazing. For the four studs... not really, I just wanted to oversize for peace of mind. Is there a table that tells us how much bigger (for the hole) we are allowed to go with a stud shoe?

Also, if I was able to do a normal venting system, is 5'-7" not too far?

Thanks!

Victor

 

[Victorr]

This drawing is better.
Yes, Island venting is only if you can't vent normally. You would need to ask an inspector if he's okay doing that on an outside wall. It does bypass going through the studs though.

I came across a drawing that state no fixture should be connected upstream to the system. (see attached picture)

Therefore, should I go back into doing this following setup?

 

[Victorr]

Would that be better than the other drawings?

Also, for the cleanouts, would I be allowed to use a flush cleanout tee at these three locations? (see attached picture)

Thank you!

Victor