Lochinvar high limit manual reset - keeps locking out

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Dana

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There is no residual loss of R-value after it dries, but it's performance can drop to about half to two-thirds of it's dry value when wet. Assuming a dry value of R5.7/inch x 2.75"= R15.7 the wettest pieces are still delivering at least R8 or better. IRC 2009 code-min for basements was continuous R1o, so even when pretty wet it'll be close to that (and still cheaper than new R8-R10 rigid insulation.) But when it dries it will spring back to north R15.5.

An uninsulated foundation wall runs R1-R2 on it's own, so the first R5 does a lot more for performance (cutting heat lossed by 2/3) than the next R5, (cutting that remaining third by less than half) or the third R5 that brings the losses to under 1/10 of the original heat loss. So even before it's fully dried it's doing a lot.
 

Dwassner

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OK. What would you suggest I use for an adhesive between the pieces of foam if any? Or should I just tape the joints, and if tape is all that is needed, would I want to tape only on the side facing the room? I was going to use cheap construction adhesive to adhere them to the wall while I apply the wood strips.
 

Dana

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Housewrap tape on the room-side facer usually works fine for air-sealing it. If it doesn't seem sticky enough that it might peel off, paint/trowel over the tape with 1/8" of fiber reinforced duct mastic, or if you're using furring instead of studwalls, put vertical furring over those seams after taping. If there are any big dings/gouges where the sheets come together, fill it with can foam and trim flush after it sets.

DON'T use standard construction adhesive to mount the foam to the wall- the solvents used in construction adhesive will dissolve/degrade polyiso, and it gets through fiber facers! Use only specially formulated foam-board construction adhesives such as LOCTITE PL300 (available at most box stores), or DAP DynaGrip Foamboard, Liquid Nails LN-604 Projects & Foamboard Adhesive.
 
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