Leaky shower worse after replacing stem and seat

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MMG

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I recently purchased a home built in 1990. The two handled shower (no tub) began dripping last week, and I could hear the valve running despite tightening the handles as much as possible. I replaced the stems (pretty corroded) but was unable to loosen the seats. The part is Danco 15884B 9B-3H for Sayco Faucets. This stopped the leak. Knowing that the seats were significantly rough (plus I needed to switch hot and cold sides), I replaced those today after using some liquid wrench. Not an easy task but both came out with the threads unaffected. I replaced the seats with a single wrap of plumbers tape and reinstalled the stems. Unfortunately, now there is a more steady drip.

I figured I would turn the faucet off and on a few times to blow out any trash. When I opened the cold side, a broken black washer flushed down the drain before I could catch it. Worried that one of the new washers was damaged, I took the cold side apart again and actually replaced the valve again. No damage but still dripping. I no longer hear the valve partially open or water running.

My questions is, did I screw something up? If this is the O ring, I can’t easily get to it because there is no access panel and it’s a fiberglass shower. What’s my next step?
 

WorthFlorida

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Where is the leak, dripping from the stem or the shower head? With stem type valves the seat washer is what wears out or falls apart. It is held in with a brass screw. Replacing the seat washer is usually all is needed. Doubtful you did anything to cause this. Just sounds like the seat washer disintegrated on you.
 

Jeff H Young

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were the new seats identical to the old. the threaded portion might be longer not allowing new seat to bottom out might be cause. I've just used dope on threads not tape for seats. while your at it give it a flush with the stems removed .
 

MMG

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Where is the leak, dripping from the stem or the shower head? With stem type valves the seat washer is what wears out or falls apart. It is held in with a brass screw. Replacing the seat washer is usually all is needed. Doubtful you did anything to cause this. Just sounds like the seat washer disintegrated on you.

It’s leaking from the shower head itself. I replaced the entire stem and seat due to there being some pretty significant damage to the brass where that washer sits.
 

MMG

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were the new seats identical to the old. the threaded portion might be longer not allowing new seat to bottom out might be cause. I've just used dope on threads not tape for seats. while your at it give it a flush with the stems removed .

They were identical as far as I could tell. I was able to extend and retract them the same as the old parts. I can certainly get some dope and try that. What do you mean by flushing with the stems removed? How do I do that without getting water in the wall?
 

Terry

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They were identical as far as I could tell. I was able to extend and retract them the same as the old parts. I can certainly get some dope and try that. What do you mean by flushing with the stems removed? How do I do that without getting water in the wall?

Dope works best for the seats.
You can flush, but if you do you might want to have someone hold a rubber hose over it to prevent water going everywhere.

pp-faucet-seat.jpg
 
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Jeff H Young

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They were identical as far as I could tell. I was able to extend and retract them the same as the old parts. I can certainly get some dope and try that. What do you mean by flushing with the stems removed? How do I do that without getting water in the wall?
takes 2 people one to open and close water the other to hold something over the valve to direct water down a bucket perhaps.
replace washers again. Is it hot or cold? close valve at water heater if drip stops its hot side leaking
 

MMG

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takes 2 people one to open and close water the other to hold something over the valve to direct water down a bucket perhaps.
replace washers again. Is it hot or cold? close valve at water heater if drip stops its hot side leaking

I replaced the hot stem again (already replaced the cold stem for the second time). Put pipe dope on both seats. No more drip! Thank you for the help!
 

MMG

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takes 2 people one to open and close water the other to hold something over the valve to direct water down a bucket perhaps.
replace washers again. Is it hot or cold? close valve at water heater if drip stops its hot side leaking

I replaced the hot stem again (already replaced the cold stem for the second time). Put pipe dope on both seats. No more drip! Thank you for the help!
 

99dej

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Sorry for doing the necro revive on this thread, but I had to bust in and let you know. I have a 40's-50's house, where the bathtub taps were leaking, and I am not in a position to redo the entire bathroom yet.

I matched up seats and washers, was still leaking. Replaced them twice in the last month, using parts from my local plumber not a home center. He was confused as to why it was still leaking.

Then, I came across this thread, used teflon tape on the seat threads - FIXED!

Thank you so much for putting your expertise out there, Terry.
 

William S.

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Dope works best for the seats.
Terry, I've been searching through posts here over the last couple of days, and time and again, you've consistently advised this. I realize I have had a "blind spot" about water getting around seat threads. The next time I pull out a seat on either sink faucet or shower body, I will do this. As a plus, I'd imagine future seat removal might be easier. . . .
 
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