Leak on Kitchen Sink Strainer Tailpipe Connection

[Viper4194]

Hello All. Came across this website doing my endless research to try to solve this issue. Woke up this AM and the waste arm had a hole causing a leak. I replaced the arm (as well as an additional pipe linking it to the trap) without issue.

However, the slip nut connecting the top of the tailpipe to the sink strainer basically broke. I attempted to connect the tailpipe to the sink strainer with a different slip nut but I'm getting a leak from the connection if I run the water more than halfway (or dump something in the sink). I inspected the flanged washer at the connection and while old, doesn't appear cracked. I am having some trouble getting a good, tight connection with the slip nut. I'm worried it is/was crossthreaded. I'm attaching a picture.

When I've removed the tailpipe and just screwed on the slip nut the connection seems better but when I add the washer I run into the same issue of it being tight but obviously not on properly (If I overtighten it blasts right through and loosens again which may be indicative of the issue). Any ideas would be great. I've had three thoughts myself: 1) replace the washer (possibly with a rubber one...current one is plastic)? 2) replace the strainer as the threads on it might be shot? 3) Utilize tape/dope on the connection but I had read on here that slip nuts should be a perfect seal and don't require that. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Reach4]

I'm worried it is/was crossthreaded. I'm attaching a picture.

My first thought looking a that photo was that the nut was crossthreaded. Then I thought that was just an illusion from the black mark. That was before I read your words.

If it is not crossthreaded, I would get some ptfe packing cord. I would drop the nut, wrap two or 3 turns around the pipe, and then tighten the nut.

If I decided it was crossthreaded, I would loosen the nut, and turn it ccw a few turns. Expect it to drop into a thread twice. Mark where you feel those ticks. Usually it's once on a good thread, but you have two sets of threads. Try to drop into the other set of threads, and see if that lets the nut screw on squarely.

To replace that nut alone, undoing the trap may let you drop that pipe grabbing the tailpiece. If the bottom of the basket is too cross-threaded, you can replace the basket plus the nut plus the washer.

 

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[Kreemoweet]

Slip joint nuts play no role is sealing, other than as the means of applying pressure between the sealing washer and
pipe fittings. The tailpiece washer (NOT a regular slip joint washer) goes between sink basket and tailpiece.
Some nuts just cannot handle a thick washer, whereas others are nice and deep and can handle anything.
Some nuts just have weird threads (made in China, dont'cha know). Soft washers seal better than old, hard ones.
Most places that sell slip-joint fittings will also have a variety of nuts and washers. I prefer the deep plastic
"PVC" nuts with wings. Just because your fittings came with metal nuts does not mean you have to use them.

 

[Viper4194]

Thanks for the response Reach4. It's a tricky thing, I feel as if the slip nuts I'm using that are either from the old waste arms or the new are just slightly different from the slip nut that came with the old basket (the one that cracked when I removed the old waste arm) and that's why I can't get the right fit. FWIW, when I use these slip nuts I have to go CCW to tighten, not the standard "righty tighty." Don't know if that makes a difference for you in your analysis. In any event I'll try to pick up the packing cord and give it a go. If not, might just be easier to replace the basket and then I'll have the OEM slip nut that comes with it so I'll know it'll seal properly.

 

[Viper4194]

Thanks kreemoweet. It's very possible the tailpiece washer is causing the poor seal. When I tested connecting the slip nut without the tailpiece washer in there I felt like I got a much more square fit. I'll try a new tailpiece washer as well. I didn't know that about the PVC nuts. In the videos I watched they looked much easier to deal with. Since I can use that maybe I'll grab one as well. Thanks again.

 

[Terry]

Last Friday I wound up replacing the basket on one that would not seal. I don't think of baskets as a forever thing. The sawzall came in handy to remove it.

You could also try the reinforced rubber seal too.

 

[Viper4194]

Last Friday I wound up replacing the basket on one that would not seal. I don't think of baskets as a forever thing. The sawzall came in handy to remove it.

You could also try the reinforced rubber seal too.

Thanks Terry. Considering the condition everything else was in (the waste arm, the small C17 pipe that connect the waste arm to the P) and that the nut connecting the tailpiece to the basket cracked, it may just be age and time for a replacement on it.

 

[Reach4]

FWIW, when I use these slip nuts I have to go CCW to tighten, not the standard "righty tighty."

Viewed from below, it would be CW. With your head above, and imagining your hand turning, it could seem like CCW.