Laundry Sink Install

[Miketv84]

Hi, I currently have a washer setup that drains into a 2in standpipe. I would like to add a laundry sink and have the washer hose drain into that so I can add a lint sock. I'm having a little trouble figuring out all of the different connection sizes. For the hot and cold supply lines, is there no way to run a splitter off of the valve that supplies the washer? I know the washer valve size is 3/4 in and faucet supply lines are 3/8 to 1/2inch. Would I need to leave that alone and just install a T fitting into the hot and cold lines ? I did see they sell a dishwasher line that is 3/8 on one end and can go to 3/4 on the other side.
Second part of my dilemma is the drainage. So the current standpipe is copper. Do I cut it, add a rubber coupling and attach PVC ? If so what type of reducers would I need since drain p trap lines are 1 1/2 or 1 1/4. Hope that makes sense. I attached some pictures to help.

 

[Terry]

You can also add a laundry sink off of the 2" standpipe for the washer.

The 2" copper DWV can be coupled to with a shielded coupling and a santee added for the sink drain.

You have 1/2" copper supplying the hot and cold. They make tees for that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Miketv84]

You can also add a laundry sink off of the 2" standpipe for the washer.

The 2" copper DWV can be coupled to with a shielded coupling and a santee added for the sink drain.

You have 1/2" copper supplying the hot and cold. They make tees for that.

Thank you. I have 5/8 water lines. I found a Y fitting off of the washer valve, is that acceptable ?

How would I reduce the 2inch size drain line into what feeds the sink drain ?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thank you. I have 5/8 water lines. I found a Y fitting off of the washer valve, is that acceptable ?

How would I reduce the 2inch size drain line into what feeds the sink drain ?

Its all pretty much available parts < Im sure a real plumber would do things a little differantly but readily available fittings are at a good supplier to build a safe sink hook up without all the soldering etc. The hose wye would work I suposse you could run w/m hose under sink to a 1/2 fipx 3/4 male hose thread a little hokey but just as reliable as a washing machine. probebly 100 other ways to macgiver it too. I wouldnt do it like that mainly for cosmetic reasons

 

[Miketv84]

Its all pretty much available parts < Im sure a real plumber would do things a little differantly but readily available fittings are at a good supplier to build a safe sink hook up without all the soldering etc. The hose wye would work I suposse you could run w/m hose under sink to a 1/2 fipx 3/4 male hose thread a little hokey but just as reliable as a washing machine. probebly 100 other ways to macgiver it too. I wouldnt do it like that mainly for cosmetic reasons

 

[Miketv84]

Yeah I guess the better approach is to install T fittings into the hot and cold lines and then screw in a valve for a 1/2 inch supply line. I'll think about that.

But still confused how to connect the drain line to the main. I like the idea of keep the existing trap and run a T off of the standpipe. But do they sell a T fitting that would work for what I need it for ? Smaller diameter for the drain line ?

 

[Miketv84]

A picture of exactly what I was thinking except what type of T that would be circled.

 

[Miketv84]

A picture of exactly what I was thinking except what type of T that would be circled.

Or I had these parts lying around

 

[Jeff H Young]

that works ... note notice the sink will not have its own trap . you could have used a santee but in this case a wye and 1/8th bend is fine

 

[GReynolds929]

Thank you. I have 5/8 water lines. I found a Y fitting off of the washer valve, is that acceptable ?

How would I reduce the 2inch size drain line into what feeds the sink drain ?

As previously stated you have 1/2" copper water lines.

 

[Miketv84]

As previously stated you have 1/2" copper water lines.

Gotcha. Even though it's stamped 5/8 it's really called 1/2in. And I'd use 5/8 couplings ?

 

[PlumbNuts]

1/2" copper is 1/2" ID (inside diameter) and 5/8" OD (outside diameter).

Terry sent you a really good diagram, the tee that connects to the standpipe can be purchased in many size arrangements; you will need a 2"x2"x 1 1/2" sanitary Tee.

 

[Miketv84]

Project complete ! Thanks everyone for help!

 

[Jeff H Young]

Project complete ! Thanks everyone for help!

Hell yes got it done!

 

[Miketv84]

Hell yes got it done!

Thanks ! Other than aesthetic reasons, one of the faucet valves isn't facing the sink as you can see it's around 9 o'clock. It won't tighten anymore and I always have issues with threaded locations dripping. Should I leave it alone, it has no issues. Just wondering if it's a code violation.

 

[Reach4]

Your air gap piping feeding (from softener maybe) into the standpipe is supposed to be cut to leave a 1 inch vertical-space gap. If you get inspected, have a hacksaw handy.

 

[Miketv84]

Your air gap piping feeding (from softener maybe) into the standpipe is supposed to be cut to leave a 1 inch vertical-space gap. If you get inspected, have a hacksaw handy.

Thanks , a vertical space between what? That pipe was there and comes from a humifilter on the boiler. I've never actually seen anything drip out of it.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks , a vertical space between what? That pipe was there and comes from a humifilter on the boiler. I've never actually seen anything drip out of it.

Maybe only part of the descending pipe would need to be cut to be officially OK. But if this preexists your new work, I would leave it.

 

[Miketv84]

Maybe only part of the descending pipe would need to be cut to be officially OK. But if this preexists your new work, I would leave it.

Oh ok cool. Thanks. What about the faucet valve direction I mentioned. Leave it alone ?

 

[PlumbNuts]

Oh ok cool. Thanks. What about the faucet valve direction I mentioned. Leave it alone ?

Nothing against code, if you are ok with it then leave it.
You have a properly functioning system now, great job.